The Expedition Diary - December 2005

01 December 2005 18:12:00

Cairo

Location: Cairo, Pesident Hotel, Zamatik Island
GPS N30°04.041' E031°13.183'.45'
Mileage = 0 km (a few around town!)
Author Chrissy Prydun

After a 6am wake-up call (courtesy of me) and having loaded up on the plentiful goodies from the complimentary buffet breakfast, we got ready for an early start to make our way to the Sudanese embassy via the Australian and British ones. This was the day we had been anticipating, yet quietly dreading for weeks. Our project managers had managed to secure most of our visas prior to our departure from London several weeks ago. However, Sudanese visas were on the list that we would need to obtain ourselves and it didn't sound like it was going to be an easy task.

W? have been running on a tight schedule these last weeks, having driven a considerable distance nearly every day to date and coupled with the pressure of visa expiry dates, although inevitable, the last thing we want is any delay in our agenda. Having sourced advice from many guidebooks and people- including an ex army guru who had recently completed a London to Cape Town expedition himself, it sounded like we could be waiting anywhere up to 6 weeks for visas. If this had eventuated it would have threatened the success and continuation of the expedition, although secretly I have always believed we will blag our way down to cape town, with or without a stint through Sudan.

The first trip for me was the Australian High Commission where Ben and Col dropped me off after a pleasant detour through outskirt arable land and the ghetto's of Cairo, hoping I wouldn't notice they were lost until I feigned ignorance. 'Er guys, wasn't it meant to only be a 5minute drive from the hotel'! Here I received a one paragraphed letter from the High Commission confirming the validity of my Australian passport and eligibility for a Sudanese visa. Meanwhile the others were at the British Embassy obtaining a similar but longer 1 page letter written in much more eloquent Queens English, which in a round about way had essentially dictated the same thing.

Many coffee runs, lost taxi drivers and batting eyelids later and we had all reunited outside the dilapidated Sudanese embassy ready for the final verdict, our letters had been read, visas processed and we had successfully obtained the visas in record time! To top it off we had managed to meet some lovely travel agents who impressed by our cause were eager to help us use their photocopier for free and track down the necessary tour operator essential for our next challenge: securing a place for ourselves and our 2 landrovers aboard the once in a blue moon ferry. This is the boat that will chug us along the nile from Lake Nasser in Aswan down to make it to the top of Sudan.

After a quick lunch at a fast food chain we split up. Chris, Ben and Colin went wandering amongst the traffic (literally – it got a bit tedious lifting Col on and off the kerbs every few metres). Meanwhile Kiko, Woody and I went on a wild goose chase to locate the tour operator that would book our ferry tickets to Aswan. What was meant to be a 10 minute walk down the road turned into a 3hour trek across downtown Cairo, with every person pointing you in an entirely different direction to the one before. After dodging every perfume shop owners’ efforts of attempting to entice us into their shop’s, we arrived at the tour operator to find it shut. An entertaining albeit unproductive afternoon!

Col had his routine to do, so I stayed back with him watching who wants to be a millionaire in Italian, while Woody and Chris headed to the bar for early birthday drinks and Kiko and Ben went out for a romantic dinner

02 December 2005 09:37:00

Cairo

Location - same hotel, President Hotel, Cairo
GPS N30°04.041' E031°13.183'.45'
Mileage = 0 miles
Author Chrissy Prydun

After a hysterical night where I had startled a slumbering Chris by accidentally grabbing his feet (an attempt to locate my bed in the pitch dark), we started the day at a more leisurely pace. Since we had successfully acquired our Sudanese visas and had virtually been on the go the entire month, we thought we would use Egypt’s weekly day off, (coincidentally Woody’s birthday) as an opportunity to rest. We also thought we’d extend our stay at the hotel for one more night so we could do a spot of sightseeing the following morning, before heading out of central Cairo to track down a camping spot.

Col’s burns have significantly improved, but hoisting him into and out of the car causes them to occasionally weep upon contact, as such a day in bed would also be an ideal opportunity for them to dry out a bit and for all of us to do some clothes washing.

We had run out of gas for our main gas-top cooker, so after another delicious complimentary buffet breakfast, Ben conveniently requested Woody’s assistance to go pick up a tank of gas. Meanwhile I helped Kiko melt chocolate in her hotel room in order to prepare a surprise cake substitute for Woody’s birthday –a chocolate rice crisp delight! Really I just lit the fire! Chris interviewed us on our African impressions and then he spent the afternoon backing up filmed footage to date. A few of us went out for a coffee, flip-flop shopping (one of my flip flops fell out of the car at some point) and grocery shopping (an attempt to stock up on goodies, before we will enter Sudan).

After a round of beers at the hotel bar and following a series of arm wrestling competitions, my Egyptian friend Aly and one of his friends came out to meet us for dinner. Woody’s birthday presented the ideal opportunity to celebrate i.e. splurge and go out for a delicious meal, courtesy of the Tabasco Café in Zamenak – makers of the best pizza in Egypt!

03 December 2005 10:00:00

Cairo Museum

Location - Motel Salma, Giza, Cairo
GPS N29 58.184 E031 10.420 Mileage = 4 miles
Author: Colin Javens

I final morning on the island of Al Zamalik situated in the middle of the nile, right in the middle of Cairo.

We rose early to spend our last day in the city of Cairo. We had spent the last few nights on an island situated in the middle of the Nile called Al Zamalik. It was our aim to make the most of the day by splitting up into two groups so we could a) organise our ferry down Lake Nasser - voyage into Sudan b) post some photo's and film for Chris and then go to the Cairo Museum. Previously all of the navigation around the busy streets of Cairo was done by our chief navigator Mr Ben but as he and Kiko were off to The Blue Nile Navigation Co I was looking for a volunteer to guide me back to the British Embassy. As usual the first to volunteer was Chrissy. Without a hitch we arrived at the Embassy to leave our car with the Tourist Police we had befriended the day before.

In my mind I was really expecting Cairo to be very much like Nairobi. I was expecting more people, more unorganisation and total chaos, however I was really surprised. In the main part of town the roads were constantly being swept and were in really good order. The pavements I wheeled down where also excellent and in fact it felt really good to get some pushing done. Over the past few weeks my chair has been bogged down in the sand and I've needed quite alot of help to get around and to get the freedom of movement back has been great.

We made our way to the famous Cairo museum. En route we had to cross a main road (which is very similar to the A4 heading into London) and with the road made up of a continual stream of crazy Egyptian taxi drivers, we had the task to cross it in some way. We needn't have worried though. As soon as the tourist police saw us trying to cross they very confidentally stepped out into the road and brought the traffic to a screeching halt. Feeling very priveleged, we were then escorted all along the busy road to the museum by a policeman.

We went into the museum and beforehand we had a proper cup of English tea, brought out to us on a platter by one of the waiters in the museum's cafe! Chris, Woody and I then spent the next two hours going around the museum, while Chrissy went on a mission to find a post office that would enable one to post packages to the UK. After spending two hours with the Doc writing endless notes, we met up with the others and loaded up for our final, crazy voyage through downtown Cairo to El Giza.

We arrived at a campsite at El Giza where we would spent the night. I went to do my routine in the camping site's shower with it's deluxe showerhead: the equivalent of a torrent of water dropping from 50 feet and landing on my head. Apparently I used all the hot water! ?eanwhile, Ben roadtested his hot plate, cooking up a chappati and fiery indian curry storm! The evening ended around a campfire, chatting to two Aussie motorbikers we had befriended in the Sudanese Embassy. Cheers for the tea Connie and Paul and good luck with your biking adventure!

04 December 2005 13:20:00

Pyramids and Tidying

Location - Motel Salma, Giza, East Cairo
GPS N
Author Kiko Matthews

Morning chorus at around 5 am but this was not the usual springtime birds but the calling of the people to prayer. Being the only person in the team who ever needs to get up in the night to go to the toilet in the night, I often get a taste of what's happening in during the night and early morning. The noise is crazy because its a mixture of different mosques from around the area and it's a mixture of singing, whaling, humming....it slightly resembles dogs howling (musical dogs!).

Eventually it finished and I dozed back to sleep. zzzzzzzzzzzz

The plan for the day was to do our last little bit of sightseeing (not that we have done much) around here and go visit the pyramids. The big market was called off because no one really wanted to risk driving back through the center of Cairo to the eastside. Instead a morning/afternoon of cleaning was decided upon (great!!!).

You have to start the morning with a good bit of tucker so I had a go at pancakes. Being my first attempt, I think it went pretty well. Ben was very pleased to see his hot plate being used again (twice in 24 hours. I had mentioned before we came, that I thought it was a waste of space so this made him very happy!).

With pancakes down the hatch (wholemeal ones with lemon and sugar) we set about giving Brenda and Beryl a clean down. Only the inside was cleaned because the outsides have taken a whole month to actually look like a proper expedition vehicles!

The gas bottle issue continued, Ben started to empty it so that we could swap it for one that would hopefully work properly. He decided that this would be part of his work out for the month while he did it! (see photo - he'll kill me for putting that online!) We thought it would be good to let Colin's burns dry out a bit more in the morning before heading for the pyramids at about 2.30pm.

Col, Woody and Chris set off to see the big triangles whilst Ben, Chrissy and myself stayed back at camp clearing up and 'messing'! We had decided to go to the light and sound show in the evening so I thought that two lots? of pyramids might be a bit too much for me. To be honest, I find sightseeing quite hardwork. I'd rather be filling my time doing something a bit more active. Anyway, I sit here now, having made our camp area slightly tidier, writing waiting for the show later on.

The boys have just returned having seen not much. The problem was was that we didn't realise that the gates shut at 4.00 so at 2.00 it was a massive rush to get Col up an out and all the tents down, so that they could get to the pyramids in time to actually see something. Well, now they return and I am getting the feeling that there was a slight navigation problem (since Ben wasn't there to help!) and so Col and Woody looked at them from the car and Chris had 15 minutes rushing around trying to do a bit of filming! So a massive rush at 2pm was a little in vain but quite amusing really!

I will return tomorrow after the reat of the day is over.

So we have now returned from the light show which from a light point of view was great but from the sound side of things it was a bit....well French and German. The rush to get to the 6.30 show meant we got to see 40 minutes of German story telling and then we hung around afterwards with a cup of cofee (supposedly coffee but not totally convinced) to see the 7.30 French show!! Neither made any sense. Something about Egyptians, Kings, Queens and pharohs, I assume!

Home time (well our temporary home), campfire and Thai Green curry stodge. Chrissy had kindly made this for the boysfor a pre-show meal but our timing went out the window and so it sat in the bck of Brenda (the defender) for a couple of hours until we returned. Tasty but mushy!

Early morning start so early to bed (10.30 is the usually bedtime for us early birds, originally me and Ben but now have convert Woody successfully and Chris is on his way!)

05 December 2005 08:35:00

En route to Luxor

Location – Rezeiky Camp, Luxor. Miles – 0 Author - Chrissy Prydun
GPS – N25’42.693’ E 032’38.907’

I am sitting here at some point in the evening after a long day of trucking. We have been up since 6am and are still driving now because it is mandatory to have the police escort us to Luxor and we had to wait for them to switch cars, get replacement police etc at various points along the route today.

I have spent the last hour protecting the boys by killing mosquitos and and tidying up this computer. Meanwhile, the Libyan/Bedoin disco music CD that our guides Tequila and Mr Naji left with us has just been put on repeat for the umpeenth time this week. It never tires!

Ben is doing a typically great job at navigating and negotiating with all the checkpoint officers we have encountered along the way. Col is in the front sensationally trucking away with a big grin on his face (he likes the music with the gipsy girls crying out). Being the celebrity that he is, he just got off the phone with ITV news who were chasing him for an update interview.

We have played many rounds of 20 questions, discussed Col's future plans with the trust, stopped for several toilet breaks along the route and one to make a suitable lunch with ingredients remaining in our fridge and food box: nutella on leftover pita breads; nutella and rice crispies; nutella with...nutella is so versatile!

Kiko, Chris and Woody are trailing in the Defender and the last message we got on the CB radio is that surprise, surprise woody is starving! The scenery has been amazing today. Stretches of lush, fertile, palm tree littered coast near the Nile river mixed with dry, dusty desert with rolling sandunes and cliffs with caves jutting out.

Ok, we have finally just arrived in Luxor. I will be back with updates soon.

By the time we arrived at Reiziki camp, we were all ravenous and nutella'd out! Col went to do his routine and Woody feeling faint with his blood sugar at an all time low, dove into the pots and pans whipping up a tasty pasta feast! A few quiet beers before bed. Ben and I were both stuffed up and sinusy with some small cold we had picked up in cairo so were quite keen to get some shut eye The doc sorted us out with decongestants and we plan to dose up on lashings of mustard powder and chilli tommorow, to sweat it all out...not that either of us need an excuse to eat spicy food!

06 December 2005 09:30:22

Leisurely Luxor

Location – Rezeiky Camp, Luxor. Miles – 0 Author - Chris Parsons
GPS – N25’42.693’ E 032’38.907’

Yesterday being not only a monster marathon but also Col’s routine day we had not got our heads down until the small wee hours. We were burning the midnight oil until the giddy, excessive lateness of 1.30 in the am. As a result we were less than sharp in getting up this morning. It took us until the indulgent hour of 10 before truly being ready to face the day proper.

Col’s burns continue to heal well but are, as expected, taking their own sweet time. We had agreed that at the earliest opportunity Col would rest both himself and them for a good 48 hrs. The secluded haven that is our latest camp seems ideal to serve these ends. The fact the ferry is not next departing Aswan until Mon and a reassuring conversation with the appropriate agent there combined to set us in this plan. A disappointing blow for Col’s sightseeing ventures but he was philosophical about his predicament. Chrissy, having passed this way in the not too dim and distant past, had already crossed the major local attractions off her “to do list” so generously volunteered to keep Col company. This freed the rest of us to spend the time as our own.

Kiko and Ben leapt at the opportunity to venture out into the sprawling metropolis that is Luxor and generally explore the local vicinity. They passed most of the rest of the day meandering listlessly through the bustling streets lined with perfumeries, souvenir bazaars and assorted local shops. The find of this impromptu adventure was the mayhem of sight, smell and sound over stimulation that is the local market. They reappeared from this experience sporting grins usually seen on the faces of children left unguarded with over sized sweetie jars.

Woody and I had different goals and set out manfully to discover the location of the Karnak temple. With barely 10 Egyptian pounds to our collective pockets we banked on coming across somewhere to change money en route. Disappointingly our haphazard navigation brought us very speedily to the aforementioned attraction prior to the required bank. Reluctant to fall into the clutches of disreputable local money men we resolved to strike out once more in search of an official currency exchange. Sadly this proved more taxing than coming across the temple and the majority of our afternoon was passed in our own rambling adventure. The highlight of this being a rotund local gentleman emerging quite unexpectedly from his doorway and hailing us with “Can I please help you to spend your money?” We were well off the tourist beaten track. Eventually an appropriate establishment was happened upon and the deal done. By now, however, Woody’s heart was no longer in the previously planned plot so I headed out alone armed with a now bulging wallet and my trusty video camera.

The temple proved the equal of any such attraction I’d previously visited prior to this trip. It sat right up there with Leptis Magna for shear jubilant, exhilarating fascination. A near complete succession of multiple pharaohs adding to an awesome original structure over centuries has resulted in a breathtaking eclectic mix of Ancient Egyptian building styles and symbolism. I wore the battery down on the camera before leaving for the day. I was spoilt by one of the most memorably fire some sunsets over the Nile as I caloohed my way back to the campsite, my face set in similar style to Ben and Kiko.

Woody had put his remaining afternoon to good use entertaining Chrissy and Col with his ever expanding repertoire of Ronan Keating ballads on the guitar. We settled down to a Chrissy special curry supper and regaled Col with the stories of our respective days over a couple of cheeky beers.

07 December 2005 14:12:00

Luxor .

Location – Rezeiky Camp, Luxor. Miles – 0 Author - Chris Parsons
GPS – N25’42.693’ E 032’38.907’

Over supper last night we had sought Chrissy’s council on the most memorable sights in the region of Luxor in order for us to best use our time today. Having treated themselves to a breakfast of assortedly styled egg in pitta bread Ben, Kiko, and Woody joined me in the Defender to follow her advice to the letter. Chrissy, herself, had again graciously volunteered to pass the day with Col back in the camp site

Our first port of call was the appropriately named Valley of the Kings. This is, as the name implies, a valley set into the Arizona style, dessert mountains behind Luxor in which the Kings of Ancient Egypt were laid to rest in spectacular tombs hand hewn out of rock. A short drive saw us pulling into the car park already sardined full with white, air-conditioned, on-board toileted, Sky TV’d coaches from a myriad of different nationality tour companies. Not to miss a trick, before even buying our tickets we had to file past a ram-shackle parade of cheap souvenir bazaars who’s hawkers greeted us clutching examples of their wears screeching proposed prices at us. Stoically we resisted these tempting offers and made for the main event.

The next several hours were spent initially gleaning as much information as possible from our immediate surroundings in order to decide which 3 of the many tombs we were to explore before, quite literally, diving into the earth to do so. We finally settled on Rameses IX, Thutmosis III (the Great Conqueror) and Thutmosis IV each of which boasted some special, unique design or decoration to recommend it. Whilst there were noticeable differences in the respective layouts, painting subjects/styles and other such features, to the untrained eye they seemed to comprise just awesome, elaborate tunnel and chamber constructions who’s simple scale and intricacy of design and decoration was enough to inspire amazement.

Next on our hit list was the Temple of Egypt’s most famous Queen, Hatchepsout (or “Hot Chicken Soup” as she seems to be universally referred to). We quickly wended our way down and then around the mountain to this hugely impressive facade. Tragically it transpired that the bulk of the Temple proper, the 25 or so metres dug into the rock was currently closed for reconstruction. This fact was not brought to our attention until we had dutifully paid our money, walked the several hundred yards to the place itself, climbed a good hundred or more steps and actually gained entry to the appropriate ante chamber. It would be no mean understatement to confess to a very real sense of disappointment and the slightest niggle of a suspicion that, despite our ever vigilance against its permanent threat, we’d been successfully fleeced. Our only succour was the knowledge that earlier in the day quite out of the blue, Kiko had reappeared from the depths of one of the parade of bazaars clutching two Scarab beetle necklaces that she assures us she traded with a young Arab boy!

This unfortunate turn of events at the temple left us with the unexpected bonus of unaccounted time on our hands. We headed back to join the remainder of our merry band before heading out again on separate missions. Woody and Kiko set course for the market to replenish our dwindling stocks before our eventual off to Aswan in the morning. Chrissy and Ben set about getting Col on with his routine, whilst I headed off to try and capture a sunset of yesterday’s fame on film. All but I were successful, most notable Kiko and Woody passed an unforgettable 3 hours in the company of a local spice shop owner, Aym. They had simply dropped in to buy some ginger but ended up taking endless cups of over sweet Arabic tea and chatting with him in near perfect English about his time in Manchester. His kind offer of showing them to a local nightspot was respectfully declined and they arrived back in camp ladened to the gunnels with assorted purchases and gifts just in time for left overs of last nights feast.

09 December 2005 12:32:00

Aswan

Location - Adams Home, Gaba Aswan (West bank of the Nile), Egypt
GPS N24 10.167 E032 51.963 Total mileage = 6737 km
Author Colin Javens

It's been three weeks since we've been in Africa and even though it's been thoroughly enjoyable, the task we have set ourselves has become even more challenging since burning myself in Italy.

When I burnt myself two days before arriving in Africa, I was wheeling uphill with a cup of tea between my legs in a camping ground in Sorrento and even though it sounds stupid already, the mug did have a lid on it so I thought it would be safe. I had absolutely no clue that I had burnt myself. The only thing I did experience was some abnormal spasaming in my arms and chest and as this was so unusual, I had no understanding of what was causing it. It wasn't till later in the shower when my trousers were off that I realised I had severely burnt the top of my legs and visually they had already begun to blister.

My first thought was that this could severely jeopardise the expedition and possibly bring a halt to it. However, in some respects I was very lucky to have only burnt the top of my legs and not underneath where I would be sitting on it adding additional pressure to it all the time. This could have potentially created a bigger problem.

As a result of the burns being on the top of my legs it's meant that I've still been able to drive, however we've really had to adapt our methods of getting me into the vehicle. For example, I've had to change the positioning of the sling so that it doesn't rub any of the burns as I'm being hoisted into and out of the car. The expedition team have also had to be extra careful when lifting me into and out of the chair and it now takes a minimum of two people to help me instead of one.

It was our main concern not to pop the blisters but unfortunately and inevitably all the moving around meant that they didn't stay intact for long which left me with three patches of open weeping wounds. To deal with this, we covered them initially with an absorbant dressing. When we removed the dressings what I saw came as a very big shock to me. I was looking at my legs which looked red raw and incredibly painful. At that point it was very difficult to get my head around what I was actually looking at. These were my legs with these burns and I couldn't feel a thing.

It took the next day and a half to get my mind over the shock of what I saw. Again on a good note, Chris assured me that this was just part of the healing process and the burns were actually going in the right direction. Looking back at it now, this was really as bad as they were going to get. For me and Chrissy it was great to have such positive feedback from Chris and that helped to settle my mind a bit.

We've been trying to maintain the healing process ever since by doing a day's driving and then I would spend every second day in bed helping the burns to dry up a bit. Showering has also become a problem because it slows the drying process although it's necessary to keep the burns clean. This has worked well along our journey so far, but it has meant that we've missed out on a lot of experiences because of my being laid up in bed. We've also got a very difficult stretch ahead of us in Sudan and Ethiopia. With our time restrictions, my fear is that the constant driving will definetely affect the healing process. As we are currently in Aswan, as a team we have decided that for the benefit of my health and to maximise the experience of this expedition we are going to stay here whilst I lie up in bed to let the burns heal.

Althoug? this is very frustrating, as this is a once in a lifetime opportunity I believe that a small sacrifice now will help us make the most of this expedition.

Kiko and Ben had a very good morning (see later diary entry) and the rest of the day was spent around camp helping to make this group decision. We all think it is the right one and hope it will help.

10 December 2005 13:50:52

Nubian Breakfast

Location - Adams Home, Gaba Aswan (West bank of the Nile), Egypt
GPS N24 10.167 E032 51.963 Total mileage = 6737 km
Author Kiko Matthews

Even though I write this today, what I am about to write about is in fact for the 9th but since yesterdays entry was already full of excitement Ithought I'd leave my little story until today. Also, since we are here for such a long time, we won't have an entry everyday otherwise we thought we may bore you!!!!

So now for yesterdays little excitement for Ben and I......

The mornings here are superb! Clear skies, sun shining, warm air and almost silence apart from the birds and an occasional eeyore from a donkey. We are camping in this amazing place the otherside of the Nile from the main town Aswan. A short wander from the beach is Adams Home, run by Yahya, a Nubian gentleman who has opened up his childhood home for travellers. When we arrived on the 8th, his helper, Norah, bought us a tray of drinks to welcome us and Yahya kept iriterating how 'Adams Home is your home' . So friendly! His home is painted a lilac colour on the outside and when you walk in, the same but with patterns painted by local children which cover the walls of central opening. Rugs, benches, chairs, traditional Nubian mud features and tables surround the sandy opening where bedrooms, the kitchen and bathroom face into the center.

Well, back to the morning.... Ben and I decided to walk to the village to find bread but it being a Friday (their day of rest) we were unsure how successful we would be but we thought we'd give it a go. So we walked about 20 mins and didn't see a whole lot - no shops, bakery, not whole deal of activity either. We took a road (dirt track) up towards the houses where we came across a gentleman who we tried to ask where we could get bread. A little bit of a language barrier but we got the message across and the next thing we know is that we're sitting down crossed legged in the middle of this old mans house talking with his family. We had asked for 6 breads so we could take them back to?camp to our friends but we ended up chatting to this family and eating a full blown Nubian (Nubian desert natives) breakfast.

It was a home very similar to our campsite home and lived in by the old man and his wife, three daughters and a whole load of kids aged 1 - 4years olds plus husbands! Laid out in front of us was a simple but delicious breakfast comprising a bowl of jam, saute potatoes, some kind of egyptian refried bean stew, and tomatoes with a runny humous style sauce. This was to be mopped up using their breads - a kind of wholemeal round pitta bread. There were six of these breads and when it arrived Ben and I looked at each other as if to say 'oh my god I think we have our wires a bit crossed. All we wanted was 6 breads for breakfast for us all, now they are probably expecting us to eat alll this.!!!' So we began to eat but after two each and not much of the filings left, we were a little bit full. Was it rude not to finish it after all the effort they had put in? Before we knew it, one of the daughters came over and gave us two long soft type breads (a bit sweeter) and gestured that they were for our friends then another daughter came over and gave us another two of the pitta style ones and the old guy told us to fill them up and take them to for the others (the communicating was done with a lot of hand movements and repeating arabic words that we didn't understand!). Well, it turned out that we had been overly greedy and had actually eaten everyone elses meal!! We did manage to scrape together the morsels to make some take away ones for everyone and they wrapped them up in newspaper and put them in a bag for us.

It was amazing. All we had wanted was a few pieces of bread for everyone and we ended up with a lovely breakfast in a great Nubian family home. Ben and I just sat there a bit embarrassed for being so greedy, but the family obviously thought it was quite funny. We sat for a bit longer talking with one of the husbands about his course at Northumbria University (a bit surreal since I was at Newcastle at the same time), had a bit of a photo shoot (their camera) and then it was goodbyes. We are hoping to return on Friday to get a photo so will hopefully have one for you all to see.

The day had not finished there! We walking home rather proud of ourselves when we heard some distant shouting of 'Chi, Chi' (tea) and down to our right, next to the Nile, was this tall, dark, handsom Egyptian (perhaps I'm getting a bit carried away!) beckoning us over to the bank for a cup of tea. We looked at each other and thought, 'Why not, it'd be fun, just add to our morning stories' and so wandered down through the fields to his little patch behind the bushes and close to the Nile.
We sat there under his shelter, crossed legged looking out over the river and watching his 5 camels (jamel in Arabic). 11am, warm sun and a great cup of Egyptian tea with another Nubian guy, Hassan. Again, a lot of hand motions, drawing in sand and repetition of words and we managed to have some kind of conversat?on.

When we left, Hassan came to see us off, blowing us kisses and waving. These guys are so friendly.

We eventually returned to our camp with some rather cold breakfast (even though it was more like lunch by now!) and the day continued as of the 9th December entry. I could quite easily live here in one of these family homes...don't know quite what I'd do all day but who cares......

12 December 2005 10:44:00

Change of Plans

Update from Jo in the UK.

As you know, Colin burnt his legs a couple of weeks ago in Italy by spilling a cup of hot tea. Although his burns aren't serious, all the time spent driving has meant that they haven't healed as well as Dr Chris would have hoped - getting Col in and out of the Land Rover each day, as well as the heat and the friction against his trousers has agravated them and not given them the chance to heal.

On Friday the team, along with myself, Caroline, and the Trustees, decided that it would be better to delay the expedition now and let Col recover fully, before the team head into Sudan for the most challenging part of the expedition.

The team are now in Aswan, in the south of Egypt, where they will remain until Monday Dec 20th when the next ferry sails for Sudan. This additional week will give Col plenty of time to heal his burns in the fresh air. Dr Chris has had the opportunity to use the Avanade laptop to send pictures of Colin's burns back to Stoke Mandeville using a process called Telemedicine - great to have an opinion from Col's own Drs back at home which is invaluable.

The team plan to catch up the lost time later along the route and still hope to arrive in Cape Town in April. We have always known that there might be delays and unexpected situations which arise out of the unusual nature of the expedition - if this is the only delay we have to deal with we will not be too unhappy!

More from the team in Aswan to follow.

21 December 2005 08:52:27

?olin's story - added 6th January

21ST DECEMBER – SUDAN GOING TO WADI HAFA
Location - Wadi Halfa, Hotel (next to NIle Hotel)
GPS
Author: Colin Javens

The journey south in Sudan sure was an eventful one. I had spent the last eleven days lying on my back (apart for getting up to go for a shower) in my tent at Yaya's house in Aswan waiting for my burns to heal and couldn't wait to get back in Beryl. Although my burns haven't healed totally the week rest has certainly improved them. As soon as I got into the drivers seat the difficulties of the week before seemed to drift away. My reunion was to be short lived, we had reached the port under an hour and it was time to unload and Ben and Woody to go through the same rigmoral off the paperwork bean bag race to get the carnet and insurance organised. We said our goodbyes to Ben and Woody who we left behind to safegaurd the vehicles on the three day sail down the lake to Sudan.

Chrissy, The Doc, Kiko and I were destined to go onto the passenger ferry (that sunk years earlier with 2000 people on board). We had delayed the bording for as long as possible so that I wouldn't have to hang out in a cramed cabin room for 24 hours. After a game of cat and mouse with the barge and ferry I was eventually lifted onto the ferry, up the stairs of death, down the tight corridor and lifted through a tight door and thrown on to the lower bed of some bunks. That is where I stayed for the remained of the journey.

We reached the port at Wadi 5hrs later than predicted and the team plus our two new south African friends helped to get me out of ferry. When we arrived in our hotel it was time for me to go to the little boys room. I don't think I will ever forget my experience at Wadi Halfa as what I went through that afternoon will be deeply ingrained in my mind for the rest of my life. The hotel was situated on slight hill and at the very top was were the rows of long drops where built. For those who aren't aware a long drop is a hole dug into the ground were you go to the toilet. The floor has a concrete base and at the rear is a small hole were you have to aim down. During the hour I spent in my cubicle I think I had half of Wadi Halfa and all of the people who had been cueing in the custom department all day came and did there business next to me. I'm not really sure what they had eaten but it sounded like they where all in a serious amount of pain. As for the smell I think I did so much wrenching that I'm sure I developed my none existing six pack back to its previous apperance.

It was a hell of an experience and I think its made me a stronger man for it. Unfortunately as our time is running out I am going to end this entry short. It's back in Beryl and time to head for the Ethiopian border.


Original message:
This is Caroline, one of the Project Managers writing this episode as I am transcribing Kiko's voicemail from last night.

As the team enter Sudan they will have to rely on communicating via satellite phone as the mobile network becomes quite scarce. This will mean less frequent and less detailed updates, but hopefully this will be remedied around Boxing Day when they reach Khartoum. Meanwhile please read the recent updates from Ben and Woody on 16th / 17th about swimming the Nile and making bread and Kiko's message below:

Kiko - 3.48pm
'4 of the team, Colin, Chrissy, Chris and I have now made it to Wadi Halfa, Sudan having had an uneventful boat trip along Lake Nasser. The other 2 Ben and Woody are with the vehicles on the car ferry - this is more unpredicatble when they will arrive but they hope in the next 2 days.

Initial thoughts on Sudan are that is more relaxed than Egypt, no need to haggle for everything, people appear more genuine. Everything slightly mad and chaotic...the boat may leave then, but maybe it won't, maybe another time...no one really knows! Health and safety regulations seem to be non-existent, such a contrast from the UK but all well and happy. Looking forward to the boys arriving then we will be on our way to Khartoum.'

12 December 2005 16:15:26

The experience of Egyptian Shopping

Location - Adams Home, Gaba Aswan (West side of the Nile) Egypt
GPS N24 10.167 E032 51.963 Total mileage = 6737 km
Author Kiko Matthews

I thought that today, I'd write a diary entry just telling you all a bit about things that we take for granted here and haven't told you about but that you'd probably like to here. It maybe a bit of a disjointed entry but hopefully you'll find it interesting.

Everyday we end up doing a shop if possible and it is amazing how much food 6 people get through. This has made me reconsider my desire to have 7 kids because I reckon I'd need quite a big oven and cupboard space. Not to mention the money! The arket shopping is fun but quuite tiring. You take for granted when you're at home and you whiz around the supermarket with a trolly, once a week. Everything stays fresh long enough and the supermarkets have everything you need and at a set price. Here it is all different. The supermarkets are these tiny little shops with nothing really exciting in them. They seem to love their sugary, sweet foods including about 3 sugars in every cup of tea (needless to say I have yet to see a good set of Egyptian teeth!)

Most shops seem to have a theme to them, electric, papyrus, spices household, veg (on the street stalls)...... so it's not a quick in and out shop? it takes a while to find what you need. However, if you are lucky enough to find someone who will help, they will take you to where you want, but at a price!! You either get ripped off in the shop they take you too (we think that they get a cut from their mates shop) or you have to go into their shop and decline every spice or scarf or onament that is being offered. These guys love to rip us off!! Yesterday, I paid 15Ept pound (GBP1.50) for a kilo of guava and then today the stall down the road offered me 1 Ept pound per kilo!! It makes you resent them a little bit because it's not really fair. They tell you they are charging you "Egyptian price" but this is really just tourist price! They know that we know what they are up to and a lot off them have their one-liners that they have learnt to try and make us buy their things. To begin with , when we asked for bread one man tried to charge us 10 Egp pound for 12 pitta type breads but in the bakery its 20 for 1 Egp pound !!!

The haggling makes for a tiring shop, but it quite funny when they know that you've cottoned on to what's happening and that they give you a little smile! I'm not sure if anyone mentioned previously, when I managed to scam an Egyptian person by trading 2 tampons for 2 necklaces!! The young boy didn't know what they were and I told him they were special things for women! He wanted one so I gave it to him and he gave me a gift, then he wanted another so I said yes, if he gave me another!! I dread to think what his father said to him when he returned home that night.!

The fruit and veg that you find here is tomatoes, potatoes, sweet potatoes, cucumber, oranges, guava, dates, onions, aubergine (10pence for a kilo compared to 99p for a small one in UK!), carrots, HUGE cabbages (10 times bigger and tastier), cauliflower. green peppers, and some peas. Pretty much like the UK but the fruit is a lot less varied unless you want to pay a lot for the imported stuff. Also, even though most of it only lasts a day or two, it has a lot more flavour.

After a hectic shop i suppose you could go into one of the cafe's and have a sheesha (a big smoking pipe type thing where the smoke goes through water and so is cold when you smoke it. The tabacco also comes in flavours. It makes me hungry though because the flavours are apple, orange and coconut! They drink loads of tea as well (with lots of sugar!). Along the streets there are boys/men who just wander up and down making tea for the shop/stall keepers and occassionally, when we have been asked to sit down for a "chi" they have to make them for us too!. It's a really shame, these people are very friendly (especially towards ladies with large chests!) and always want to practice their english with you but unfortunately, they always want something from you. They know that you are wary of them so have practised being genuine and trustworthy so you fall into their trap and it is easy to be guliable.

When you leave the town, you have to becareful with ? dodging the traffic. A red light means nothing, they don't use their headlights except when they are flashing you, no entry means enter, you can stop where ever, undertake..you name it, it's allowed! Strangely though, because this is the case, everyone seems to be far more aware and you can't rely on anything or anyone. It's a bit of reverse pyscology i suppose. The cars would also all fail their MOT's (I expect it's like this through out Africa from now on) but it's amazing how we have all traded our cars in, for these new models which 5 -10 years down the line fall apart having cost us a lot along the way. The cars here are probably 15-20 years old and still running perfectly well apart from a bit of black smoke pouring out the back!!

I get the fealling that women in this society are becoming more accepted because there are a few women in the shops working but generally this is a male dominated society. Women and men queue up in separate queues at the bakery, they hang out in groups and I have yet to see one sitting in a cafe relaxing with a tea and sheesha.

Christmas is soon but there is no sigh of santa except for the od cruise ship with some lights and "Merry Christmas" on it's side. Even though there a few christians here the majority are muslims so the christmas is no such thing. They are supposed to pray 5 times a day and they will do this anywhere, infront of anyone. Saying that, I've only ever seen the men kneeling down, facing east and muttering their prayers. Aparently, if they are busy or travelling then they only have to pray 3 times a day but i suppose this is all dependant on who religious they are. Friday is their Sunday and nothing is really open until 4 so count that day out for shopping or getting anything important done.

The time has come to say good bye and if you don't hear from me again until after christmas - HAPPY CHRISTMAS!

13 December 2005 13:44:00

Romance

Location - Adams Home, Gaba Aswan (West bank of the Nile), Egypt
GPS N24 10.167 E032 51.963 Total mileage = 6737 km
Author – Chris Parsons

Today started as, in my humble opinion, all days should with porridge. The newly acquired powdered Dutch milk seems to be of significantly creamier nature than that which we brought out from the UK. The washing up done and no discernable plan for the day we set about passing the time as constructively as possible.

In my role as chief cameraman I have managed to accrue a further 3 tapes documenting our journey so far and these had been languishing in the bottom of my camera case for some considerable time. Discovering that out eternally helpful host, Yahya, was happy for me to plug the kit into his electricity supply I set about recharging the batteries and putting together a filming log of the footage we’ve taken so far in Egypt. I had hoped to complete the arduous task of backing these up onto our trusty laptop but the temporary misplacement of the second plug adapter made this impossible. Instead I set upon the plan of filming something of a commentary of our journey so far to compliment the footage I had just catalogued and that which has already been mailed home.

During the course of the late morning and earlier afternoon a succession of vehicles pulled up outside our adopted home and deposited a growing number of smartly attired locals onto the front porch. With the arrival of Yahya we learnt the reason for this. It transpires that tonight is something of an occasion in the weekly calendar of Adam’s home owing to the arrival of several falloukas worth of assorted tourists out of Aswan and this was the reason for the ever increasing band collecting in and around the entrance way. The resultant cacophony of noise and resultant increase in volume of ever present Nubian folk music made filming pointless, so I struck upon the idea of shooting the interview on the banks of the Nile. To this end I set out across the permanently manned fields opposite us with full kit.

Having barely completed the sound check I was joined by Ben and Kiko looking for a mid afternoon swim in the Nile. This afforded me the opportunity for some great footage but got me no closer my intended goal. They brought with them news of the arrival at camp of a Dutch group in tractor and converted fire engine journeying down to the South Pole in aid of several world hunger charities. After they had sun dried themselves and headed back to camp I was mid filming preparation again when I was joined by one of the aforementioned Dutch party. Having been reassured that the waters were indeed Bilharzia free, he too was looking for a quick dip. Thwarted again, but I could hardly begrudge him the well earned dip after a days travel atop a tractor. I knew my final chance of the day was gone when as I was just saying my goodbyes to him the first of 3 falloukas pulled along side and began unloading the beginnings of a near 50 strong party. The much vaunted evening had begun.

It had been negotiated with Yahya some days previously that this evening would also be the occasion of him cooking Ben and Kiko a romantic, candle lit dinner in one of the rooms of the house. Whilst the setting was idyllic and the food scrumptious, the back drop of the aforementioned party swigging back copious quantities of alcohol, sucking on endless pipes of shiesha and holding dancing competitions to the beat of now live Nubian drums detracted from the experience some what. The rest of us were also treated but to some of Woody’s experimental cooking and enjoyed the show from outside the walls of the house resisting the temptation to nip in and interrupt the now less than romantic supper!

15 December 2005 13:10:00

More experiences in Aswan

Location - Adams Home, Gaba Aswan (West bank of the Nile), Egypt
GPS N24 10.167 E032 51.963 Total mileage = 6737 km
Author Chris Parsons

After Woody’s inspired stir fried vegetables with pancakes last night we’d all rather got the taste for the latter and so started the day with more of the same, again expertly whipped up by Woody’s fair hand. The only difference being the absence of the vegetables and the addition of sugar and lemon juice. Simple pleasures

Owing to our dwindling supplies and a desire to touch base with the world over the Net, Ben, Kiko, Woody and myself headed into Aswan proper – a short drive down and across the Nile. We left a horizontal Col dictating his postcards to an attentive Chrissy.

Previous experience of the souk had taught us that stopping for tea whenever offered whilst a culturally thrilling experience resulted in many hours slipping by with little achieved. With our loins girded to decline such generous offers we headed off into the mêlée that is the back street market of Aswan. That’s to say Kiko and Ben did, Woody and I skulked around the corner from where we parked the 110 to an Internet café to spend the princely sum of 6LE (about 60p) and a very enjoyable hour catching up with all and sundry back home.

Having successfully completed our respective missions we rendezvoused back at the car only to discover our first flat tyre. Having been discussing the absence of just such an event the night before with an even crazier foursome from Holland (driving a tractor to the South Pole), we had a strong sense that Murphy’s Law was at play. The occassion caused quite a crowd to assemble all muttering helpfully in Egyptian. The combined efforts of Woody and Ben quickly saw the spare off the rear door and swapped with its dilapidated counter part and we were soon heading back to camp. On arrival a quick inspection of the inner tube revealed a small perished area that confined it to the waste bin until rescued by Ben with plans to turn it into a floatation device either to cross the Nile or get Col safely in the water. He remains undecided.

In previous conversations we had discussed obtaining a couple of chickens to supplement our daily diet of vegetables a la everything. The guys had decided today was the day and so headed into Gaba Aswan to acquire them. I have been trying to find the time every since we got here to film some form of commentary on our progress and so took myself off to the banks of the Nile in an attempt to find somewhere quiet enough to do this. It seems that practically since the start of our journey we have never been out of microphone range of some form of music system pumping out local tunes. This makes for an appropriate and intriguing sound track for the trip but plays havoc in the editing suite. Despite various interruptions from assorted locals, a fishing boat, several steamers, the odd fallouka and an especially vocal bird in a neighbouring bush I succeeded until losing the light.

On my arrival back at Adam’s Home supper preparations were well under way. The local butcher had kindly offered to prepare the two live chickens we’d bought so sparing us the gruesome task. A real team effort saw a veritable feast of fire roasted chicken, cabbage, mashed sweet potatoes and carrots and some divine onion gravy quickly prepared as I hunted through the now near pitch dark for replenishment fire wood. Having eagerly devoured our wonderful supper Col called a team meeting where we took stock of how things were progressing and made plans for the remains of our stay here and beyond.

16 December 2005 14:22:00

At the bakery

Location - Adams Home, Gaba Aswan (West bank of the Nile), Egypt
GPS N24 10.167 E032 51.963 Total mileage = 6737 km
Author Richard Wood (aka Woody)

I woke this morning feeling refreshed after another good nights sleep. Being static for a few days has helped everyone recharge there batteries a little and there is definitely a more relaxed feeling around the camp. Everybody else was still sleeping so I decided to go exploring and try to find some food in the nearby village of Gabazwan. I’m not normally much of a morning person, but out here, watching the sun rise over the Nile it’s so much more peaceful and a heck of a lot warmer than back home! It’s nice to wake up and not have someone on a TV or a Radio droning on about everything that’s going wrong in the world. So with nothing but a few donkey carts to disturb my peace I set off towards the village. Half an hour later I was starting to realise why Ben and Kiko had been taking so long on there visits to the village. Not only had I still not found food but just about everybody I met along the road wanted to invite me in to there home for tea and tell me all about there family. It wasn’t much longer before the smell of freshly baked Pita breads hit me and I followed my nose down a small alleyway to the local bakery. I don’t know if it was because of the language barrier or again down to the Nubians genuine desire be as welcoming as possible but within seconds I found myself being led by the hand in to the heart of the bakery and invited to help make bread! This place was nothing like your average bakers shop back home. The enormous diesel fired oven was twice the size of one of our landrovers with a huge conveyor belt running down the centre. At one end was one man skilfully spinning the dough balls brought to him on trays into the familiar flat round shapes and flicking them on to the conveyor. I soon found out this was a lot more difficult than it first appeared. My first few attempts didn’t even leave my hands and when I finally did manage to release the dough it went everywhere other than the conveyor belt, much to the amusement of my fellow bakers! After some further advice and several cups of tea I finally managed to get some bread on the belt. It wasn’t anything like flat or round but I still felt pretty pleased with myself! At the other end of the oven two guys were frantically unloading the finished articles on to trays to cool. I collected my mis-shaped breads and tried to pay for them along with some more edible looking samples. In true Nubian style they wouldn’t accept anything in return. This was a far cry from the echoes of ‘Bakshiesh’ in Cairo. And so covered from head to toe in flour and with a small bag of bread by my side I headed back towards camp. I had every intention of sharing my wares with the rest of the team but unfortunately hunger overcame me. It was a long way after all! So I arrived back at the camp with nothing but Dough covered hands as evidence of my mornings work.

17 December 2005 14:18:00

Nile swimming

location: Still in Gab Aswan
Author: Ben Matthews

Ben: Salaam aleikem?
Yahya: Wa aleikem a salaam!
Ben: Salaam aleikum hot, salaam aleikum cold!!!!
Yahya: Ben your Arabic is so good; you are also a very funny, masculine man!

That’s right, I can get by alright! Hello to all you Driving Home followers out there, its Ben here – hold on tight this is my first entry. Why? Beeeeecause:

- I haven’t yet done one
- I’m sure many of my fans back home wish to hear me speak
- Finally, today 3 of the team came close to death!!!!!!

Again Col lay in; fresh flowers at his bed side and the wind in his hair, he wasn’t going anywhere. For the rest of us we were on a mission: Kik’s, Woody, Chrissy and I headed over to the East side – Aswan. Woody and Chrissy hit the internet café, whilst Kiks and I went to have a chat with Muhammed from the Blue Nile Navigation Co. - The guys who organise shipping from Egypt to Sudan via Lake Nasser. This was our second meeting to organise our crossing (set up by Muhammed) and it seemed to be as productive as the first – (Egyptian style) no commitments on prices, times, trip duration or even a boat. Just, ‘come back on Saturday 09:00, we’ll talk then!’ No worries I thought, time to hit the market and perfect my haggling skills. Personally I am starting to get a bit fed up of being hassled by the Egyptians, anything goes when these guys want to get a few bob out of you (prison rules). So I take great pleasure in reducing there excessive profit margins, not because I’m tight but it’s nice to buy stuff for its real price over here. Also, if tourists continue to pay over the real value, constantly and willingly then it’s possible that this will have a negative economic effect for the locals! (Yes I’m a professional on these kinds of financial things!)

Anyway, back to camp, spot of lunch and time to limber up for the great Nile swim! When I slipped off my shorts and displayed my Next Y-fronts to Woody, Kiks and Chrissy, the phrase ‘tight’ came to mind. However, the price for successfully swimming the Nile is actually a lot tighter! We were all aware of the dangers we were about to face: Nile Crocs, large river cruisers, 500m crossing of a moving river, no arm bands and the risk of my pants falling off!

Kiko dived into the river like a wounded water beaver; her poor entry somehow must have contributed to psyching her self out! It didn’t matter though, the rest of the team was still strong, despite the fact that Woody can’t swim!

The Swim took us about 20 minutes and by the time we hit the East bank we were all starting to feel quite cold. We had drifted down river by about 300m due to the flow, slightly lengthening the crossing. We were all pretty chuffed to have nailed this large river but I don’t think any of us were that keen to swim back to our starting bank, were we had left all our clothes. So there we were, 3 of us stranded pretty much naked in Southern Egypt, with our camp about 5 miles away from (us by road)!!!!! ‘Don’t panic I’ve got a plan’!!!

These Egyptians will do anything for a little cash, only problem was we had no clothes and definitely no money! So I tried to buy our way back with my cheap Casio watch (found this by the way), unfortunately this wasn’t enough – they would only take it for one person. Not to worry, plan B!

Because we had drifted on the swim over I suggested that we should walk back upstream, so to make our return swim as easy as possible. So that what we were doing, then round the corner we found a huddle of men. Wooops! This could be embarrassing, especially since its not the norm to wear so little. Not a problem however, as we got closer we realised that these guys were wearing far less!!!!!!!!! We had only stumbled upon Homer and his 4 muscle buddies – Muhammed, Muhammed, Muhammed and Muhammed. Two of these guys were greased up and wearing some disturbingly tight ‘Mr Universe’ pants. I told Chrissy and Woody not to worry and that I would take care of any man grappling!!!

Fortunately it wasn’t needed, all these guys wanted to do was feed us fresh fish, bread and rice – all to make us strong. They kindly organised us a small fishing boat to take us back to our beech and invited us all to join their private gym club. – This was just what we needed, perfect!

By the time we got back the camp, the guys were all wondering what had happened to us. So we retold the ‘River crossing of near death’ story, all laughed, drank beer and sang - what a wonderful adventure.

Well till next time, take care – ta ta.

19 December 2005 08:42:37

Absolute Madness - added 6th Jan

ABSOLUTE MADNESS 19TH DEC
Location - Passenger ferry, Aswan - Wadi Halfa
GPS - changing
Author - Kiko Matthews

All day was chaos and madness. The morning started well, preparation for the next leg was as good as could be and we were all set to arrive at the port, 20km out of Aswan, to meet Mohamoud for 10 am. We had cleverly discovered that we could drive down the westside of the Nile and then drive over the High Dam (above the Aswan dam) and end up directly at the port. This would have saved us quite a trek through Aswan, except, for some unknown reason, half way down the road (now 9.45) we were told to turn around and go the other way. Crazy police rules. There are checkpoints all over the place and I think it just depends on the time of day, mood and policeman as to what they do at these points. On this occassion they weren't on our side!. The result? 1 hour delay to the port which I'm not sure what the fuss was all about but it's just the way these Egyptians are. Time is a very odd concept for them, sometimes they are in a manic rush, others, there's no such thing as time!

Once at the port, we met up with our fellow overlanders who were sharing the car barge with us (the tractor crew, the Swiss, the Austrian family and some new guys - the South Africans). If I had pages and pages to write then I could surely fill it with 110 reasons why you wouldn't want to be an Egyptian, but because time and space is short, I won't!

There seems to be no method behind their madness except for that they've been doing it like this for 20 years, it works and so they aren't going to change it even though the day could have taken half as long if they did!

The passenger ferry was taking me, Chris, Col and Chrissy. Ben and Woody were going to accompany the cars on the barge along with Manon and Colin (tractor crew) and Robert (the Swiss man). Frank (the Austrian) wasn't allowed on with his wife and family so the came with us along with the S.A.'s and the remaining tractor lot (Sara and KJ). The ferry was going to arrive tuesday and the car ferry..well who knows. The bottom line is that no one knows anything.

At 2pm we were rushed to the ferry because it was about to leave - this is not like a British ferry by any accounts. It was dirty and would never pass any health and safety test but it did have an odd kind of character to it. Hoards of people, oranges, tomatoes, sugar, rugs, you name it, even the kitchen sink was aboard this ferry and was being frantically loaded through this tiny doorway. Quite sensibly, Col decided we should just sit in the sun until leaving time (which we now established wasn't 2pm) At about 4pm, land rovers loaded on to the barge a few boats down, the S.A guys Toyota was still awaiting it's own special barge (more madness since there was loads of space on our barge). Their barge arrived and moved the huge passenger one out the way even though not everyone was on (including us!). The Egyptians were expecting the Toyota to be driven onto this cement barge along two tiny, skinny planks about 3/4 of a foot wide! Not suprisingly, they refused but meanwhile, we were contemplating how we were now going to get Col up and over the side of the boat because it had moved away from it's original loading position. The S.A guys had point blankly refused to put their car on so now the cement barge was moving away. This would allow the Egyptian men to tug the passenger ferry back into it's original position! It's complicated, I know, but this is what we've been having to put up with the whole time with this ferry booking. We've had to go meet people, here there and everywhere only to arrive and be told that we don't have to do anything on that day - all very pointless and mad. They need some good organisers to run the port because there was certainly no evidence of this person at the moment.

It wasn't until about 6pm that we eventually set sail and it was packed. We were lucky enough to have 2 x 1st class cabins (probably a british 3rd class) but the remainder of our friends had 2nd class. In hindsight, I would have been more than happy with 2nd class but we weren't to know that we'd get a special area to sleep in, not just squashed up with all the locals and their tomatoes. ?he reason that there is so much produce on these ships is because it is quicker and cheaper to import from Aswan, than to drive it up from Khartoum in Sudan.

Now for the fun bit of getting Col up some very steep metal stairs. No one semed at all bothered by Col or to take any notice of him, all they wanted was to get on the ferry with all their belongings. Eventually we found an opening, Chrissy had clobbered a strong looking Egyptian man and then we started lifting Col up the stairs of death!! The big Egyptian turned out to be big but not so strong and dropped his side of the chair but luckily it didn't cause too many problems. He was safe and dry! The remainder of the short trip into the small bunk bed was a tricky little number but not quite so hairy!! Being here makes you realise how well equipped England is for disabled people - over here there is virtually nothing and what there is, isn't intended to be access, it's just coincidence!

For Col and us to prepare for the ferry is more than just a ticket. He had to change his routine day, earlier in the week so that it wouldn't fall on the night of the ferry and also, there is all his bedding, mattress, medical kit plus all his own personal kit. Then there's food for the next couple of days, and all our own kit as well. So there's quite a lot of planning and kit!

The boat ride itself wasn't too exciting but the atmosphere was great. All of us guys were out on deck star gazing and then in the morning, the dutch and S.Africans treated me to a slap-up breakfast right at the very top of the boat. Fig jam, feta cheese, bread, coffee and best of all, some marmite!!!

Contd. on next entry.........

18 December 2005 16:07:18

Last full day in Egypt

Location - as before
Author Kiko Matthews

Just a short entry to say goodbye, Merry xmas and Happy New Year. Our internet connection is about to come to a close as we prepare to enter Sudan. We are sorry for the rather disjointed diary entries but it is suprising how much there is to be done. This has meant that we haven't had a huge amount of time to complete all the entries on time or in order. You'd think that 10 days in the same place would mean that we have loads of time but somehow we don't. We're not lying in bed much past 8am, bedtime is never before 10 and we don't sit around sunbathing, but somehow, the day disappears!

Please, if you would like us to write about certain things please contact us ? otherwise we will continue as so far. Feedback (negative and positive) would be much appreciated as this diary is for you.

Today, we finished off our preparations for Sudan by meeting Mohamed at 11 to return our number plates to the transport police. Not very exciting, but 5 minutes of essential paperwork. Mohamed has been very helpful and it definitely helps to get them on your side. He has mentioned how he doesn't like certain people and you can kind of see why, and he's not going to do them any favours. However, he has helped us with everything and also paid for me and Ben to have a coke!! (these freebies are much appreciated when you are on a budget!)

We must also mention how amazing this campsite has been. Yahya and Norah (and the others who have helped) have been great - really friendly, generous and helpful. I would recommend it to campers, overlanders, families - anyone who wanted to relax with a great atmosphere and good facilities and all at the cost of £1 a night!! It has made Colin's 11 day lie-down as pleasurable as could be and I have noticed how accomadating, friendly and eager to please, these Nubian people are. They have been so good to us all especially to Colin (was very funny when Yahya bought him flowers to go by his bed!)

May I also mention the other group again, who are raising money for children who are victims of war, and Manon (I think that is correct) who is driving her tractor from holland to Cape Town, then boating it to Antartica, and walking the rest of the way to the South Pole!! Their website is www.tractortractor.com

Now, i sit here in the dark, Colin doing his routine with Chrissy, Ben is trying to fix our water pump (quite an essential bit of kit especially now that we are hitting the hotter climates) but to no avail, the cars are clean, bags packed, fuel tanks full, food stocked up on, and the other two are doing their final e-mailling in Aswan.

We are all sorry to be saying goodbye to Adams Home and Yahya and all that we have seen in Egypt, but I think we are all quite excited for the next step as we hit what i'd call "proper africa". Its always a bit scary making the transition because you get used to a country, its people, prices and you know how things work, and everytime you enter a new country you have to start all over again (it's ok though because mummy Matthews has stocked up on the food for times of need!!!)

Good bye and Merry Christmas to you all and thanks once again to all those who have supported us. (i must go because i'm being nibbled by the mosquito's - they love me!)

Think of us spending Christmas with no alcohol and no roast turkey, stockings or presents - but in the sunshine!

20 December 2005 09:12:00

Sudan customs - added 6th January

20TH DECEMBER – SUDAN CUSTOMS
Location - Wadi Halfa, Hotel (next to Nile Hotel), Sudan
GPS
Author Kiko Matthews

Sunrise ontop of the ship was gorgeous plus we got a glimpse of Abu Simble, some old Egyptian statues and temple, right on the edge of the lake. Some interesting information we picked up about the lake and Sudan were that the Egyptians promised the Sudanese $15 million but still haven't paid it back plus they haven't given Wadi Halfa (Sudan) the electricity they promised. The Egyptians can shut their dam whenever they want which can cause the lake to rise by 10 meters or so and with out warning - this makes the whole of the edge of the lake uninhabitable yet it should be a fertile and productive area but it isn't. The whole of the old Wadi Halfa was submerged once the dam was built but occasionally you can see the top of a mosque. Sudan are planning to build their own dam which will drain the whole of Lake Nasser and so the High Dam really will be a high dam (at the moment it doesn't look so big because it's all underwater). Once, the ferry was so overloaded (2000 as opposed to 600 passengers now) that it sank and only the Europeans survived because none of the locals could swim!

Anyway, back to the day. We eventually arrived at 2pm and planning to get Col off was a bit more successful than the entrance! Immigration was on the boat so customs was pretty simple. The reaction to Colin was much better at this end and the Sudanese port and customs men were a lot more helpful. We all got loaded up into a big Toyota truck and headed the couple of hundred meter to customs. Eckhard, one of the South Africans was being kept on the boat because he'd left his passport and visa in his car that was on the barge (still in the middle of the lake somewhere). George, his mate was very good about it all considering the circumstances.Customs was so laid back and we were out in no time - Wadi Halfa here we come!

Wadi was our first stop in proper Africa and what a change. The people carried on with what they had to do and didn't hassle us at all. The hotel was interesting to say the least - doors had one hinge and a padlock that was so small that you could open and lock it with your fingers!! the beds were old and rickety, the carpet was sand (and a lot of razor blades) and the toilets..well Colin will tell you all about them in the next entry (he actually got to experience them today but he will explain all tomorrow!)

In our hotel there was George (S.A), us four and 2 dutch, Sara and KJ. It was is really nice to be with some other travellers and this is one of the reasons that I love travelling. I really like learning about other peoples countries and their ways of life, finding out about them and their experiences. This is the first real substantial length of time with some other overlanders and I love it.

We all had lunch/dinner at the local cafe which was potato, omlette and bread - very hearty!! Then some of us stayed around drinking coffee from the little coffee stalls, me and George sat and talked to Mashar about all sorts and Col and Chrissy got on with their routine. Mashar was a very helpful Nubian guy aged 27 who seemed to run everything to do with the overlanders, on the Sudanese side. He spoke great English so it was a great opportunity to get some answers and hear some stories.

The southern Sudanese people who have fled north, serve coffee, many types of tea and delicious little donut balls. We spent the rest of today and most of the next couple of days carpet pickinicking on these goodies and sharing stories and games of chess (which the locals were keen to witness) with the other travellers. Before we all bedded down for the night I helped wash Chrissy's hair with some cloudy water (desperate times - it had been over a week since she last washed it).

22 December 2005 13:15:00

Barge antics and Customs - added 6th Jan

22nd December 2005 Barge antics and customs
Location - Barge/Wadi Halfa, Hotel (next to Nile Hotel)
GPS
Author Ben Matthews

Swiss Robert: (chuckle, chuckle, chuckle) Ben, that is hilarious!!!
Ben: Tell me about it.
Swiss Robert: But surely wrestling an 8m Crocodile is very scary?!
Ben: I won’t lie to you Robert that croc sure was a big one but I think the fact that I was wearing a dress confused the hell out of him, giving me the competitive edge!!!!
Swiss Robert: Wow!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It’s been a tough few days for sure – time to depart Egypt.

With the rest of the guys on the passenger ferry to Sudan, it was time for Woody and me to relax – looks like we drew the short straw! We had the pleasure of accompanying the vehicles on a little barge – 35 x 10 metres, 3 Land Rovers, 1 trailer, 1 tractor, 1 fire engine, 1 Unimog, 2 speeds – laid back and laid back, Colin and Manon (the tractor challenge guys), Swiss Robert, Kosovo the dog and a couple of boat crew to take us on our luxury 3 day cruise across Lake Nasser.

It was brilliant, we had stocked up with supplies (Inc Kikos secret supply of chocolate – not that well hidden) and we were able to cook and sleep in our own vehicles. 3 days of R&R, no plans just sleeping, eating, chilling, croc wrestling, sun bathing and taking in the views. Definitely a much appreciated opportunity to get some quite time, I even managed to read my first book for at least a decade – possible the first ever!!!! For 3 days we were able to put on the back burners and it certainly highlighted just how much hard work it is has been camping with 6!!!

These few days flew by surprisingly quickly and before we knew it we were arriving at Wadi Halfa. Knowing how busy these border crossing days can be and how little time there is between running from building to building; the top tip is to eat as much as you can before you start. So we loaded up on cucumber, tomato, Worcester sauce and crushed chilli chapattis and sank a few glasses of Egyptian style tea – we were ready! These sambo’s were definitely needed, not because of the manic rush of getting papers stamped etc but simply because we had to hold tight, sit back and relax; don’t worry it’ll all happen - Sudanese style. I instantly knew I was going to like Sudan, how could anyone not; these guys were not only happy they were also horizontal!

So after a very mellow encounter with customs we were on our way to reunite with not only with the rest of the team but also with many of our new friends that we have made over the past few weeks. Things are now really starting to get exciting, were about to leave all roads behind and head deeper into Africa – off into the Nubian Desert!!!

23 December 2005 07:44:00

Big Wild Africa - added 6th Jan

23rd December 2005 – Big wild Africa (at last!)
Location - wild camping, Sudan
GPS
Author: Chrissy Prydun

6am! Our first early morning for a while. It took half an hour for the doc to emerge. i.e. half an hour before I shone a mag lite directly in his face to try and unsubtely wake him up. As much as the Doc, Col and I have enjoyed sharing our Wadi Hafa shack over the last few days, Chris must be relieved that he will have a break from the two of us. All Col and I have done for the last few nights is annoy and embarass him like younger siblings, creating a series of songs up about his love life that we have sung repetitively. Unfortunately I am in a position in which I am unable to disclose any love interest identities, or so Chris has warned me!

After reuniting with our cars and remaining team last night we were ready to truck along the scenic nile route we had heard so much about. We farewelled the dutch and south african guys after exhausting the donut lady's town donut dough supply for breakfast, ready for our first dose of real four-wheel driving off tarmac roads through what for the first time felt like real authentic Africa!

What followed was by far one of the highlights of the trip so far, or at least from my position atop of the roof of the Defender. We had started the day in our respective seats in lieu of what felt like unseasonally icy African winds,but due to the stunning scenery and glorious sunshine, sitting in the backseat of the disco amidst obstructing rucksacks and tinted windows just didn't seem to do the landscape justice. I know this may make certain people nervous reading to imagine us all taking turns at sitting on top of the moving vehicles, but it's human instinct to occasionally take risks and chances in order to live life that little bit more and this trip presents no exception inspite of the care we take and daily planning we do. Of course the vehicles didn't clock over a steady 20mph and the drivers took care to drive extra carefully so you couldn't exactly label us as daredevil action junkies yet!

Anyway, all those car companies would have been jealous of the docs footage. Not only did the roof of the vehicles present a fantastic vantage point to film alternate cars driving over golden sands against mountainous purple haze backdrops (like in one of those panoramic Landrover TV commercials) but we all got a 'feeling on top of the world' buzz that day. Having ridden his vehicle of noisy back and front seat drivers eager to sit atop Beryl, for the first time on this trip Col had some contemplative solo drive time, a nice change from all the lying on beds he's had to do. Meanwhile the rest of us feeling proud and lucky on our rooftop thrones above, grinned compulsively at the scenery around us despite the fact that by the end of the day we had become sunburnt, couldn't feel our backsides from all the knocks and bumps underneath and had become caked in a nice layer of dust and dirt (ok well maybe putting sun cream on with grease covered hands wasn't the wisest idea).

We were still beaming by the time we arrived to set up camp on a piece of remote, wild and windy sand dunes. Inspite of Cols humourous retort that they had plans to build a shopping mall here, it occured to me that our very camping ground may have potentially remained uninhabited within our lifetime due to the isolation of the entire place. Unfortunately the roar from the wind (and possibly a cranked sound system) meant that the south africans we had planned to reunite with passed by us unknowingly inspite of flailing arms and shouting voices from our end We ended up catching up with them two days later just in time for christmas lunch.

I love the air of mystery that comes with travelling on this trip. Of course we have a plan and know the general direction we are headed to on a daily basis (in that obviously southward direction) but what ? we will see on the way, what dramas we may or may not encounter on the journey, even the spot we end up selecting as our camping ground as well as what spices will flavour our eagerly anticipated dinner's remain clouded in uncertainty and I love it! Some countries I have expectations of but Sudan is one place I don't even have a clear image of apart from those taken from the medias portrayal of the humanitarian crisis in Darfur. I am looking forward to what Africa's least visited country will reveal in the next few days, what turkey substitute we will concoct on christmas day and to locating the whereabouts of those remaining hidden hip flasks of whisky!


Original diary entry:

2nd voicemail via satellite phone...

'We're all back together in Sudan. Currently near Kosha in the middle of the desert. At N20.57.427 E30.39.093 All well and managed 160km since the port at Wadi Halfa. Heading south but progress depends on the condition of the roads. More detail to come when we reach Khartoum. Bye'

24 December 2005 18:42:00

The perfect day - added 6th Jan

24th December 2005
Location - Rough camp en route to Dongola
GPS - N 19@ 39.093 E 30@ 22.248 Mileage = 200km (Total 7137 km)
Author Chris Parsons

Yesterday had been by far and away the best day yet for me. We were finally driving through the Africa of my minds eye and not even an ongoing buffeting from the bitterly harsh, overnight desert wind could dampened my giddy school boy enthusiasm for the day ahead as I eased into consciousness this morning. It was still as dark and starry as when I’d fallen asleep necessitating a quick time check before gingerly toe dipping into the freezing, rapidly moving early morning air.

A morning call to Col’s tent latter and we were packing the camp away, stealing jealously guarded sips of our still too hot tea from comfortingly warm, steaming travel mugs, as the most glorious sun rise momentarily transfixed us. It proved a mesmerising back drop to this now near second nature routine. To perfect this virtually indescribably awesome picture Woody ambles over as the last box is packed away and the last corner of the sky finally fills with daylight and casually mutters “So you up for driving today, mate?” My Scooby Doo-esque overly keen, slightly slobbery, grin covered nodding head was answer enough. So began an even better day.

The “Arizona crossed with Mars” landscape of yesterday continued for the early part of the morning as I got the feel of being behind the wheel and driving in this totally alien terrain. Wicket lengths, or more, of cement hard corrugations interspersed between either almost too deep, sand filled ruts or marble sheened, flat, weather – and more recently tyre- worn rocky outcrops all plunging and rising and crissing and crossing this enormous country made the first few hours pass with me in a trance like state. It felt like performing my first solo surgery over and over again. Undoubtedly it was a world away from the only other driving I’ve done on this trip on the highways of Libya. My experiences on our 4x4 training weekends gave me the confidence and knowledge of the capabilities of both myself and the vehicles whilst these early expedition drives gave me the feel for the fully ladened versions.

Quite dramatically I realised that the scenery had changed as the road edged into the thin green belt that sandwiches the dirt brown, icing tipped expanse that is the Nile. The roads became more exclusively rutted sand and corrugations but they were now undulating through languid palm trees shadowing small rectangles of almost unnaturally green arable land being worked by hunched, starkly white figures. Intermittently the road narrowed, we crossed a brow in a break of a short wall and entered a village. For the most part these where made up of single story, square, open roofed mud houses, however, quite regularly nestled amongst them there would be an explosively colourful one. Just as the brightly, summer-coloured robes of the universally elegant ladies we were spotting more and more regularly contrasted so markedly with the monotonous white of the men’s robes so these houses stood out dramatically, and beautifully, from the rest.

In each town we were greeted by sporadic groups of predominantly women and children with just the occasional elderly, slightly bent, invariably Kitchener moustached gentleman. The woman waved almost bashfully from behind radiant, half covered smiles while the kids would rush towards the cars waving and shouting. Somewhat depressingly we realised by the 2nd or 3rd village that the children’s gesturing and shouting wasn’t a local greeting but demands for us to stop and give them money, pens or anything else they could name in English. This thin end of the tourist wedge still failed to destroy the abiding image of simple, honest, foreign rural idyll that will remain with me as my long term memory of this most special of days. It being Xmas eve didn’t even cross my mind until well into the afternoon I was so totally enthralled by this intoxicating experience of rural Sudan. By then, even this realisation couldn’t make me fit any more smile on my dust caked face.

We had been warned the road soon became tarmaced so I reluctantly surrendered the wheel mid afternoon to Woody to concentrate on shooting as much footage as physically possible of Col ploughing through these dusty lonnins in his by now beloved Beryl (Discovery) from the unstable platform of the ever attendant Brenda (110). All too soon Ben pulled us up to find a suitable camp site for the night. We selected a sheltered lea side of a rocky outcrop and settled in for the night. Whilst off scouring the sparse bushes for suitable wood to treat ourselves to a Xmas eve fire I looked back towards the camp to see Ben and Kiko atop the largest mini mountain silhouetted against an equally spectacular sunset and realised I had just had one of those truly rare experiences – an utterly perfect day!

I wish you all a Merry Xmas, Happy New Year and more than a few such wonderfully special days of your own in 2006.

25 December 2005 06:35:00

Christmas Day - updated added 6th Jan

25th December 2005 Christmas in the Sudan!
location - Hotel in Dongola, Sudan
Author Kiko

Merry xmas to everyone (bit late but it's the best we could do). Ours was spent with a 6am rise because we were all so excited to see what santa had bought us! Christmas carols were sung by me and Chrissy with backing music from our mobile ringtones - ingenious! We made a camp fire because it was particularly chilly, what with all the freshly fallen snow! Yes, it's the first year that Sudan has had a white christmas! After a few team photos, we put the carrot on the snowmans nose and then headed off towards Dongola.

Chrissy decided she'd have a go a driving off-road which she was great at and we made contact with the South Africans who we seem to be chasing around the country. This was great because it meant that we could spend Christmas with a fw extras, and since there was no alcohol (alcohol, pornographic material and homosexuality is illegal) it was nice to know that we could at least have a bit of a "party"! On the homosexuality point, it's very bizarre because the men walk around holding each others hands which I can't quite get my head around!

The morning's drive was delightful and very picturesque and with Ben's excellent navigation skills, we managed to weave our way through little villages and large expanses of desert. I took over from Chrissy in the Defender which really made my Christmas - it makes a big difference from the automatic renault clio that I drive back home!!

Somehow, our entry into Dongola was a novel one. We managed to enter via the inside of Dongola University!! The guards at the gates looked at us rather oddly because we managed to get inside the grounds without actually entering in the first place. Because a lot of this part of the driving has ben navigating on a GPS and trying to pick up tracks, Ben literally followed a bearing to the port which involved driving over what i guess you could call a wall (not actually a wall but probably was once upon a time)

We got the ferry across the Nile to be met by George and Eckhard and then off for Christmas lunch/dinner. mmmmmmmmmmm!!! No turkey but half a BBQ-ed chicken, Sudanese style, salad and chips was fine by me! For dessert, which seemed to go on for a long time, we had these "sweets" which were exactly what they say are there. Some form of carbohydrate soaked in syrupy sugar. They make you feel really sick, especially after all the pepsi's, but somehow you keep on eating them. By the end of our 4 hour epic meal, tea, chat and more chat, we were all feeling a little bit sick. We passed it with the owners of the restaurant if it was ok to have some whisky which Col had bought and the thumbs up meant that we could all have a little tipple - everyone agreed that this must be the driest xmas in about 10 years but I reckon the sugar intake must have helped!

Unfortunately, there was a slight dispute over the bill. They tried to charge us 210000 Sudanese Dinas ($94) for our meal which was totally excessive and it turned out they were trying to charge us for sitting down but even then the additions didn't make sense. By the time we had left, it was down to 18000 SD!!! Our spirits were rekindled by a bit of sing song and cup of tea in the boys (S.A) room before hitting the sack at about midnight. A very different, but good Christmas and thanks to George and Eckhard who made it just that little bit better!


Original diary entry:

Text message from Kiko

'HAPPY CHRISTMAS EVERYONE'. Ours was alcohol free and involved lots of driving but we all had a great day. Good desert driving with corrugations. 80km today and heading for Khartoum tomorrow. Writing the diary so hope to send from Khartoum. Grid ref. N19.10.675 E30.29.638.

26 December 2005 12:22:00

Quickly through Khartoum

Written by Caroline

We were hoping to receive the team's diary today but unfortunately this hasn't yet happened. I spoke to the team today though who all seem very well and happy. Staying in Khartoum tonight having made excellent progress driving 520km today. And that involved Woody getting stuck in sand!! A bit of excitement but all safely out. ?hey are heading now towards the Ethiopian border.
The weather suprisingly is quite windy so they are wearing jumpers and trousers. The vehicles are standing up well to the corrugated roads and Colin's burns are stable and not currently causing concern.

Sadly they were unable to meet with a Sudanese doctor who is involved in research into spinal cord repair (and partly funded by Spinal Research) in Glasgow. He was back in Sudan over Christmas but was rushing towards the Darfur region, a place our team will be avoiding.

We hope to get their diaries soon...keep reading and if there is anything you would like to hear more about please let me know, caroline@drivinghome.co.uk

Happy Christmas and New Year, Caroline

28 December 2005 11:37:00

Customs in Ethiopia - added 6th Jan

28th December 2005 – Border crossing into Ethiopia

Location - Customs in Ethiopia
Author Kiko

Finally, the weather is what you'd call hot! By the time we reached Sudanese immigration at 5, we were more than ready for a cold drink and a stop. The Defender crew, me being one of them, were all caked in a fine layer of dust because we have no air con. The windows have to be wide open in order for us to survive but there is a price to pay.

We checked out of Sudan by going to the 'security office', went to sudanese customs (waited a bit because the guy in charge was at lunch (5pm!) changed some money down some side street. We then crossed over the border which was not what I'd call a border but that's what it was. Ethiopian passport control was a really sweet mud hut with one man and no queue! Customs was then down the road about 30 km driving through some great little villages with the sun going down through the trees. The landscape, people and way of life changed almost immediately. We'd heard some rather bad stuff about Ethiopia but so far i can't see why. Hopefully when the photo's arrive, you'll see why.

We camped in the customs car park (surprisingly good including a shower (cold of course) and relatively clean squat toilets. I made....yes, believe it or not, another veg curry. 'The boys' ,who still haven't managed to get rid of us, had the pleasure of one of my 'releasing' (!) curries. I think I over catered as always but with some sporadic help from Eckhard on preparation, I managed to create quite a nice meal. Considering that the boys looked at me as if I was mad when I said there was no meat involved, they managed to get through quite a lot of it. I think they may have even had 3rds!! (and regreted it in the morning!).

I'm not sure if we have ever mentioned our camp security, but basically, at the end of the night and whenever we aren't near a car door, we lock everything up out of sight. It actually takes a while and maybe we are a bit over cautious but we were taught that it's better to be safe than sorry. Any way, to the point I was about to make was, how the boys just leave everything open , bikes unlocked and all, and they don't seem to care and they get nothing nicked - makes me jealous!!

Bedtime (again) with some good thoughts about hitting Ethiopia, country number 7!

29 December 2005 11:11:00

Ethiopia - added 6th Jan

29th December 2005
Location - Telema Hotel, Gondar, Ethiopia
Author - Kiko

The most amazing scenery yet I reckon (the team is split 4:2 on this comparing to Wadi Halfa - Dongola, road.)

Rolling hills, little villages, loads of Ethiopians going to and from work/school..breath taking.!! Thank god for digital cameras otherwise we would have got through about 5 films! Chrissy got slightly snappy happy alog the way!

Not a huge amount happened but I think scenery was just fantastic - I'd reccommend this place to anyone. Morning time was quite funny with regards to the veg curry. Everyone went to the toilet straight away (at least once!) I think the South Africans enjoyed it and were thankful the meal the night before! It unblocked everyone - who needs Ex-lax!!

Our Hotel seemed reasonable and they allowed us to camp in the car park and use their facilities (which didn't work for the majority of the time - water that is!).
Dinner in Ethioia at the hotel consisted of............grey, vinegar pancakes with 'lamb' and some saladish type thing around the outside. The 8 of us (yes they still haven't got rid of us!) sat and enjoyed(?) our first taste of Ethiopian cuisine. We invited the boys to join the team as GP (Dr. George) and the ..??.. (we're not sure of Eckhard's role yet!). I forgot to mention (I think), that these guys were supposed to be in Nairobi by 27th December having spent a while in Ethiopia so we have well and truly put these guys off schedule!!

Our first sit down meal with alcohol for ages (If not the first time). The pancake was some what interesting - I just hope it doesn't do too much damage to ?s all.

We are well and truly saying goodbye to the boys this time because they now have to meet their friends in Kenya (we'll see! I bet we keep seeing them for a while yet). We almost covered their car in my Driving Home stickers before they left, to stop leaving!.

Bed time

30 December 2005 13:21:00

Stunning Ethiopia

Text message from the team sent on 30th December

'All ok. n12.36.615 e37.28.264 Off to Simien Mountains tomorrow. Ethiopia is gorgeous and people very friendly and helpful. Best yet! Nice now english speaking. Col doing well. Beer at last for new year. Will send diaries in Addis. Happy New Year!'

The team have also met other amazing travellers along the way - Dan, an ex rugby player who damaged his knee and was told cycling would help him...so he has embarked on UK to Cape Town by bicycle!

Also - please buy the Independent on Sunday on 1st January 2006. There will be an article about Driving Home in there. We hope it will be good. Thankyou for all the Chritsmas messages - they have been passed onto the team.