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01 January 2006
09:45:00
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Happy New Year - added 6th Jan
1st
January 2006 – Happy new year
Location: Addis Zimmen
GPS: N12 13.813' E037 46.419'
Weather: Nippy!!!
Ben: Mohammed, wake up.
Mohammed: Zzzzz Zzzzz
Zzzzz
Ben: Mohammed, I think some crazy Baboon wants to
share my bed!!
Mohammed: Zzzzz Zzzzz, paaarrpppp, grunt,
it must be your turn - you travellers get all the luck!
Once we had all hugged and finished the last few
bottles of local brew, it was about 01:30. The night air was
pretty fresh and everyone seemed keen to get there heads down,
there was a lot of trucking to be done come the morning.
Everyone went off to there little boudoirs but not me.
Being in such a beautiful spot and being the start of a new
year, I thought that I would be a great idea to bivvi out
under the stars. My plan was to help get Col into his pit and
then I would set up my spot next to the fire. I grabbed my
sleeping bag and wondered back but it looked like I was too
slow. Mohammed our Scout (local armed guard – compulsory
purchase whilst in the park, his mission: to protect us) had
only gone and nicked the best spot in the house. He was flat
on his back, playing sleeping Lions with himself right in
front of the fire. No worries Mohammed, you have our beers,
food, spare blanket and now my bed – at least we’ll sleep
better knowing that we’ll be safe.
So I wondered into
the bush to become one with myself and it wasn’t long before I
was fast asleep. 03:30ish and my senses threw me awake –
Kiko’s curry was still taking effect and there were some
alarming noises coming from the bush behind me. I tried to
ignore it but about 20 minutes later I heard the same monkey
noise. Not knowing what a Baboon is capable of or what he
wanted with a skinny Brit, I quickly jumped out of my bed and
scurried back to the safety of Mohammed – I don’t think this
made a difference! Mohammed has got some stamina I thought;
there he was still playing sleeping Lions. So I moved a few
rocks, laid out my bed and got back to sleep. ‘At least if I
did get attacked by a monkey then at least Mohammed might wake
and help me!'
I woke to a beautiful sunrise and a
glass of Egyptian tea – this certainly was a great start to
the New Year. Mohammed stood above me, riffle in hand, pink
safari suit, Rasta hat and looking proud of himself that he
had looked after us so well – this was a great photo
opportunity.
It’s a shame that we couldn’t have had
longer in the Simien Mountains, these really are a must for
anyone who visits Ethiopia. However Ethiopia is a big place,
lots to see and we’re still trying to catch up days!! So we
got back in the trucked and headed back South to Gondar, only
briefly stopping for a few supplies. It had taken us 4 hours
to drive 110km and the original aim to pushing west from
Gondar towards Lalibella was starting to look very
unrealistic.
By about 5pm we had managed to make it as
far as Addis Zemen, only about 80km SW of Gondar. This seemed
to be our best option for stopping and so that’s what we did.
Grab a local and get him to take you to the nearest campsite.
I think that this will be a preferred method of finding camps
whilst in Ethiopia, simply as wild camping just doesn’t seem
to be an option. It seems that there are people everywhere
even when you believe you’re in the middle of nowhere.
The evening was spent, cooking, cleaning and
unfortunately having a team meeting to decide what site/places
we are now going to have to miss out on. Ethiopia has just got
too much to offer!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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02 January 2006
09:19:00
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Chrissy's story - added 6th Jan
2nd
January 2006
Author: Chrissy Prydun
Location:
Gohatsion
Having spent the last three days clocking up
hundreds of images of amazing ethiopian highlands from the
passenger seat on Col's digital camera, I thought it was time
to curb my photographic obsession. The only way I could think
of to prevent my hands wandering for the camera (for another
shot of a donkey causing a road block) or fridge (for another
one of our dwindling supply of mandolin chocolate bars) would
be to keep them busy i.e. to jump in the drivers seat of the
defender keeping them firmly and permanantly attached to the
chunky steering wheel.
Who would have ever thought I
would learn to drive manual in Africa? When I first applied
for the position aboard the driving home team, I had to
confess my manual driving experience was limited to driving
the wrong way down one ways streets and causing traffic jams
in non english speaking countries, but an experienced
automatic driver, I was confident I could master the skills
needed to truck accross Africa in time with a bit of practice.
In Ghana at the time I was offered the position as
Col's PA I thought what better place to learn how to change
gears and drive on the other side of the road than to rent one
of the busted up taxi's with matching taxi driver, to drive
accross some and dirt tracks and through downtown Accra. Crazy
as it was for the stressed out taxi driver, it was this in
combination with Woody's Tripoli carpark driving lesson that
gave me the confidence needed to jump on that booster cushion
and have a go at some African trucking.
I cannot quite
describe the incredible feeling of driving through Africa. The
scenery is always stunning and varied. Infact it even changes
dramatically within an hourly stretch. Combine this with some
great chat; music pumping from Chris' ipod (when Woody hasn't
put on another Oasis mix) and the realisation that I am
driving such a powerful machine accross Africa in the middle
of knowhere makes me feel on top of the world.
For my
maiden driving home voyage I drove in Libya with Col's vehicle
up ahead looking like a mirage the roads were so straight, and
the desert so hot and flat. Despite my tricky 1st to 4th gear
changes and uncool erect driving pose this day gave me
practice in handling the car at high speeds and in windy
conditions, especially when semi-trailers would fly by so
closely in the opposite direction.
The second time I
hopped in the drivers seat I was yet again sporting an uncool
driving pose but felt way more tough and professional
ploughing us through sa?d storms, dirt and gravel in order to
get a taste of sudanese off road driving. I managed to get
practice in gear changing and not tipping us over on the side!
woohoo! Moreover I managed to get us there without destroying
the last of our remaining christmas food kitty - half a dozen
eggs.
But today's drive was the best. With beautiful
hilly scenery sprawling up ahead of us, fantastic company (the
always entertaining Matthew's team onboard) and Kiko in charge
of the music, it made for a spectacular day of trucking. Ok,
so I am still a little partial to losing the location of the
third gear from time to time, which means that whoever is
passenger can't really sleep at their leisure. However, today
I got practice with mountain driving, dropping gears into
corners and speeding up out of corners and driving through
crowded villages. Moreover I managed to do so without hitting
any of the local wildlife, although a few times we did come
close to feasting on thai green donkey curry.
The
afternoon was great. Kikes took over with driving so I could
catch up on some diary entries and later the three of us got
all deep, with the start of the new year, Ben's tarot card
christmas present and philosophising about our new years
resolutions prompting some emotional chit chat. As we all
drove into and out of an amazing gorge (a 2 hour journey due
to ultra dusty bumpy roads) we had the windows down and big
grins on our faces. Ben who had hopped on the roof for the
drive looked like he had been in a science explosion with his
hair and face covered in dust. He took the official 'Stigger
the dump' title off me for grubbiest face. The cars had found
it all a bit rough though. Beryl had overheated and although
we didn't know what the problem was at the time, Brenda's
starter motor had blown. So we postponed our plans to make it
to Addis Ababa in favour of setting up camp in the squashiest
hotel carpark in a village Gohatsion. Here we would camp at
for the night after the boys negotiated hotel prices while
Kiks and I belted out lyrics to a Cat Stevens song in the
idling car drawing a local audience in the process. We treated
ourselves to a feast of beer, bread and goat/sheep (perhaps
some other meat or part) at the local pub and Chris hit it off
with the pub owners kids while we contemplated how the pub's
macchiato coffees good taste so good?
Original
diary entry:
Text and Voice mail messages from the team
saying;
'Happy New Year.' They spent New Years Eve on
the top of the Simien mountains with amazing views, a large
campfire and a few beers which they thought was perfect! I'm
very jealous of them!!
They have now headed back to
Gonder and towards Addis Zemen and onto Lalibela. They hope to
reach Addis Ababa on the 3rd or 4th Jan where we hope to get
some emails and diary updates from them. There have been
stunning views around Addis Zamen and Chrissy and Kiko have
done all the driving of the Defender, all 440 miles in the
last 2 days. The rest of the team are also very well.
Vehicle? not quite so well after the corrugations of
the Sudan roads. Woody has been working hard but they need the
expertise of a mechanic and some spare parts which they will
soon get in Addis.
More updates in a couple of days.
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04 January 2006
12:32:00
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Driving to Addis
Location: Addis Ababa, Taitu Hotel
GPS N12
36.468 E037 28.242 Total mileage 8365 km
Author Chris
Parsons
Last night had provided me with a wonderful
opportunity to interact with the locals over some especially
prepared Njara. By the end of dinner I had mastered 1 to 10 in
Amharic and could rattle of the names of most parts of the
body and essential school equipment courtesy of the land
lady’s 5 (amyst) and 6(sedist) year old daughters. They, in
return could pull every funny face I could muster and make a
passable stab at “Head, shoulders, knees and toes”, in truth
most of the bar could have the number of times I exposed them
to it.
I had thought my education complete for the day
so having helped get Col settled in I retired to the bar for a
final beer whilst bringing my own journal up to date. Word had
obviously got around this one horse town of our arrival and a
procession of steadily more inebriated locals traipsed in to
sit and /or chat. My final host was by far and away the worst
for the drink. After declaring his love for Osama Bin Laden,
even producing a pin of his likeness, he inquired as to my
religion. Only in Glasgow has this question produced quite
such an acute fight or flight response. I remembered the St
Christopher hanging obviously about my open neck and figured
lying might only get me in even more trouble. My mumbled reply
resulted in him throwing his arms around me and declaring his
love for Christians too. My heart rate slowed and my palms
dried rapidly. It wasn’t until he’d forced 2 further beers in
my direction and the rest of the bar emptied I realised there
may have been some ulterior motive behind his generosity.
Stumbling back from the toilet he swayed towards me and with
“a nod and a wink, say no more” frighteningly reminiscent of
the Python boys proceeded to offer me the bar maid for the
night. Happily I was still sufficiently sound of mind to beat
a hasty retreat to the sanctity of the boy’s tent to ponder
the completion of my night’s education.
After all that
excitement I was good for little more than occupying the back
seat of the Disco for the most part of the morning. Despite
the darkened windows it was still possible to make out horizon
filling vistas of the most fertile green and gold slipping by.
Once again we were privileged to have ring side seats for the
attempted suicides of several beasts of burden and even a
small child under the wheels of one vehicle or another,
happily none where successful. These near misses only
reinforced our conviction that Col’s deteriorating brakes
really did need attention before we pushed on. Brenda, as much
out of spite as sympathy, had added a bust starter motor to
our ever expanding list of technical problems. So it was with
not inconsiderable relief we limped into the outskirts of
Addis Ababa – the new flower – and set about deciphering the
assorted collection of half accurate maps into one
intelligible one.
For reasons best known to the Lord
above I had been nominated navigator for the day and spent the
last few hours blissfully ignoring this role owing to it being
a totally straight road from last nights “hotel” to the
capital. Now, however, I was going to have to sing for my
supper. My first flyby took us with in one street of our
intended destination but we were not to discover this until
some time later. By now we should really have learnt the
ongoing issues many Africans seem to have with maps but we
keep stopping, as one might on the continent, and producing
maps for the locals to stab at with their fingers before
descending into heated debate as to even our exact current
location. Woody had disappeared, found an internet
café and managed to locate the only Land Rover dealer
in Ethiopia before I even had confirmation I was where I was.
Despite these challenges I managed, 2nd time lucky, to take us
directly to our desired location only to find it full! No
mater, there were a veritable throng of “Rasta’s” to direct us
to what was to become our home for the night, the oldest hotel
in Ethiopia – the Taitu Hotel. After much discussion between
the manager, ourselves and several newly, self appointed
“guides” we unloaded both Landies fully. Col was for his
routine and the guys headed off to get the work weary wagons
back on the road. So began our stay in our 5th African capital
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05 January 2006
12:55:00
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Awaiting Car Servicing
Author:
Chrissy Prydun
Location: Addis Ababa, Taitu Hotel
GPS
N12 36.468 E037 28.242 Total mileage 8365 km
After
our pizza and beer reunion with the south african boys Eckhart
and George the night before, Kiko woke up to feel a little
rough. It seems she had picked up some 24hour stomach bug and
so had to rest in bed for most of the day with frequent trips
to the bathroom. Ben and Woody took the defender to the
Landrover dealer they had found to sort out the problems with
the cars. Meanwhile the Doc, Col and I spent a morning
attempting to catch up on driving home mail at the slow
internet cafe, contemplating on plans post cape-town and
entertaining the locals by helping Col to wash his hair in
public: This involved the Doc tilting back Col's wheelchair to
a low enough position for me to do the honours of pouring
bucketloads of water on his head. As the doc worked up a sweat
delicately holding the chair in place I treated a grinning Col
to a therapeutic scalp massage. No wonder the boys complain
that Col gets preferential treatment.
In the afternoon
Ben kindly went to sort out our Ethiopian visa extensions
after we chickend out at the thought of forging our 3rd
January expiry date to a potential 8th January. Kikes probably
had her head in a bucket (although thankfully had regained
enough appetite for a bowl of potato chips) and the rest of us
feasted on a lunch of pasta, fish and chip butty sandwiches
with chilli powder! Having missed out on a lot of sightseeing,
Woody and I accompanied Col for an afternoon stroll while
Chris went to negotiate with the local pharmacys in order to
purchase extra dressings for Col's burns. A chance to get fit
on the hilly stretches of road. It seems we had strolled into
the glitzy end of Addis with the street lined with tacky
jewellry shops. Luckily the cobbly shanty towns we later
encountered, bright and colourful in the afternoon sunlight
made for a nice change of scenery. Of course there was always
enough time for a double dose of delicious macchiatos along
the way.
Ethiopia to me is a fascinating place. It is
unlike any other African country I've been to before with it's
own unique style. Besides being overwhelmed by mind blowing
scenery, the people themselves are warm and more reserved than
stereotyical Africans with beautiful features and original
embroided clothing. At the same time I have never seen so many
begging people in the streets and children chanting and
demanding things like pens and plastic. It has made it a bit
harder to turn a blind eye and reminds me why I so keenly hope
to work in Africa in the future..
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06 January 2006
15:29:00
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New diary updates now arrived
Dear all,
Sorry for the long delay in awaiting the teams diaries.
They have now managed to send them via an internet cafe in
Addis. Please save some time as they are worth the read. The
date back to 19th December and the title says 'added on 6th
Jan'.
The team are still in Addis waiting for the
vehicles to be fixed. The 110 starter motor is now working
again although Colin's brake vacuum pump (that was already
changed in Libya at a cost of £500) seems to be
playing up again which is not good news and sounds to be
another expensive experience.
They all very well -
Kiko is now feeling better - and they are all looking forwward
to Southern Ethiopia and Kenya where they will be visiting
their first project - the Kenyan Paraplegic Organisation. Due
to the remote roads again we will not be able to get regular
contact until Gilgil or Nairobi - scheduled for 20th January,
but I will keep you all updated as best as I can,
Thankyou.
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07 January 2006
11:37:00
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Leaving Addis
Date:
07/01/06
Location: Lake Lagano, Ethiopia
GPS: N07
35.769’ E038 41.648’ Total mileage 9766km
Author: Ben
Up early – today we left Addis Ababa, think that
we might have been there a day too long.
So since our
problems with the vehicles nailed our finances yesterday, our
first stop was to the hole in the wall at the Sheraton. Being
Ethiopian Christmas day we thought that they might present
some treats on entry – no joy!!!! Plan B – we sent the girls
off to the ATM and the boys hit the toilets. Half an hour
later we were loaded with cash and back on the road heading
south.
Last night we had decided that a visit to the
Bale Mountains was going to be very tight for time. So once
more we had a quick rethink and decided on a more leisurely
cruise to the Kenyan border, making time for a little Hippo
wrestling at one or two of the Great Rift Valley Lakes.
As planned it certainly was a relaxed day, we trucked
only 200km on really good tar and were parked up by 13:30 –
time to really appreciate our surroundings. Our camp was on
the edge of Lake Lagano, a massive brown coloured lake that is
supposedly the only lake in the area that is Bilharzia free
and safe for swimming. If you’re lucky you might even see the
odd Hippo – we weren’t, loads of bird life however!!
We definitely need more days like this, quite often it
seems that we go bonkers for a few weeks, something breaks or
we have to sit for visa’s and then its only at these times do
we all find a little time for ourselves – time to wash
clothes, have a shave, read a book!! So that’s what we did; we
sent Col into the toilet tent with a bottle of local brew
(Ethiopian laxative) and the rest of us just caught up with
what ever.
We swam in the lake, ate a lot of food, sat
by the fire and watched the sun go down. Not forgetting a
little toast for my brothers 21st birthday – ‘Happy Birthday’,
looking forwards to having a beer with you on my return!!!
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08 January 2006
11:57:00
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Bird watching
8th
January – Hot springs
Location - Wondo Garnet, Hot
Springs, Ethiopia
GPS N07 05.004 E038 38.245 Total mileage
9841km
Author Kiko Matthews
Since we were only
driving a short distance to Wondo Garnet, we could have a lazy
morning by the lake. After a bit of a dispute with the locals
regarding fire wood and camp fees, we eventually set of the 50
odd kilometers to the hot springs. Once again, the scenery
failed to disappoint us and we arrived for a late lunch at the
Costa del Sol of Ethiopia! You would have thought that being
in the middle of no where would mean that we would be in for a
tranquil afternoon and evening by some hot pools - boy were we
wrong!! Every man and his wife seemed o be here and apparently
something to do with their Christmas (January 7th). The
Ethipian calendar, and time, is totally different to the rest
of the world. They are 6 hours behind us in a day and are in
1998 and about 6 days behind us as well - all very confusing!
The hot springs were much appreciated by all since
we've had little hot water cleaning for a while.
On
our way to the springs we passed a load of potato stalls on
the side of the road, and quite amusingly, both vehicles ended
up buying a sack so dinner for the next week is going to be
....potatoes!! Mash, chips, saute, bombay, pesto, in tomato
sauce..you name it, we have so many there's no other choice!
In the evening, (having eaten our potatoes) we met a
really nice American couple. He was a professor of some
physiology and was very knowledgable on the wildlife which was
very useful. At these hot springs we were lucky enough to see
Colombus monkeys as well as th common cheeky little ones who
were feasting on the wild figs in the trees above us. The
birds, including the White Hornbile, and the flowers, made for
a great spot to relax and look at some of Ethiopia's wildlife
up close.
Not a hugely eventful day but good none the
less.
P.S Even the water in the toilets was hot!
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09 January 2006
12:00:00
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9th January – Heading for border number 6
Location - The Green Hotel, Yabello, Ethiopia
GPS N04 53.827 E039 03.004 Total mileage 10000 km
Author Kiko Matthews
Sunrise with Colobus monkeys,
amazing flowers, loads of birds and scenery was the perfect
way to start an early morning. The scenery in Ethiopia is
amazing - everyday is different. The landscape, plants and
people change every step you take. Those big wide smiles and
children shouting and waving is exhilerating (you have to
block out and forget the begging money scamming!)
Today, we drove through fir forests, scrub land, red
soil, sand, tropical forest, had papaya, coffee, pineapples
and potatoes for sale on the road side......every 50 km was
different.
I took the driving seat (am getting quite
attached to the Defender!) and starting the morning off in a
very good mood (something to do with the crazy dreams from the
night before!!!). Music full blast from the iPod, booms around
the vehicle while the occassional squeal from mine and Woody's
lips, can be heard! I love it. Great mood, loud music,
beautiful scenery and control of a 2 and a half tonne vehicle
makes for an amazing day.
Emotions on this trip are
bizarre. Yesterday, for some reason, I was feeling a bit numb
and grumpy, and then by the evening, I was fine. Then this
morning, and all the time I was diving, I was just in one of
the best moods ever - smiling for no particular reason at all.
There seems to be little rhyme or reason behind peoples moods
and you just have to learn to live with not only your own, but
also, with everyone elses!! The highs and lows seem to be
getting a bit more frequent but they don't last that long and
the rest of the team always seems to notice and so play
carefully - quite nice I suppose and one of the advantages of
having a large group because your moods are diluted.
We've been on the road for 2 months now and just over
3 to go. Sometimes I wish it was less and sometimes it seems
great. Yes, this is the most amazing experience ever but for
those of you who may think this is a holiday, I can assure you
it is far from that. The lack of the simple little things you
take for granted at home like showers, hot water, washing,
cold drinking water, refridgeration, fresh veg and
fruit(variable availability), supermarkets, cupboards for
storage, having a bed you don't have to get out and put away
every night, and clean hands all get too much sometimes. 6 of
us have all we need to live off for 5 months, packed into 2
Land Rovers (including ourselves!) and the amount of times the
sugar has spilt all in the back draw, is uncountable now! I
think we are all doing really well.
The expedition has
so many elements to it, preparation, driving, saftey, our
daily living, the change in culture, raising money and
awareness, the challenge for Col, for ourselves, and for the
team as a whole. Loads of the diary entries have been about
what we do on a daily basis and what we see, but I think we
are all a bit shy about writing our feelings and these go all
over the place in this kind of environment. A bit like Big
Brother but I'd imagine a lot harder and longer.
Anyway, this is my last entry for Ethiopia because
we will be at the border tomorrow but I must recommend it to
everyone, overlander or holiday maker. There is so much to see
and it's all so different. We have met people who are here for
1 month and they are having to cram things in so the longer
you stay the better.
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10 January 2006
12:00:00
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Ethiopia/Kenya. Welcome Home!
Location – Moyale KWS campsite, Kenya border
GPS N03 31.087 E039 03.004 Total mileage 10214km
Author: Colin Javens
We left the Yabello Sanctuary
and The Green Hotel by 8am heading for Kenya. We had 150
kilometres to do before we hit the Kenyan border. I had been
feeling incredible excited over the last week at the thought
of arriving in Kenya, but by now it was really beginning to
boil up inside. We stopped 40 kilometres from the border to
have lunch, swot up on the border crossing procedure and for
Ben to erect the Kenyan flag onto Beryl (that was kindly
donated by John Fone on the day of our departure).
After years of planning and 65 days of being on the
road we were flying down the road in two Land Rovers with me
in control of the lead vehicle, proudly flying the Kenyan flag
high in the sky. It felt absolutely fantastic!
We
reached Moyale (the border town) and drove down a road
bustling with people, sheep and donkeys towards the
custom/immigration departments. We were met by a young
Ethiopian boy called Daniel who greeted us with ‘Karibu’
(welcome). It was hot! Our thermometer read 37 degrees. Again
it was time for the guys to go through the rigmarole of going
the border paperwork bean bag race. I stayed behind in Beryl
and brushed up on my Swahili with Dan. It wasn’t long before I
was beginning to feel like I was cooking up and my long
forgotten Swahili was about to run out. Luckily the guys
arrived and we moved under a large acacia tree tucked away
behind the custom building. Pleasantly the guys were through
in a record breaking time of 1 hour.
We drove under a
string barrier and crossed ‘no mans land’ into Kenya. Much to
the amusement of the Doc we where asked to take the Kenyan
flag down because they thought I was a Kenyan MP. Again we
were through in record breaking time and I yelled out, ‘Don’t
worry, I know the way! Follow me!’ Five minutes later we where
lost and boy, I still haven’t lived it down yet. Half an hour
later we found our campsite and celebrated with a warm Tusker
beer. That night was to be the first night in five years that
I sat outside in a ‘T-shirt’ since my accident because it was
so warm. Feeling good and after talking rubbish around the
fire with Ben, Chrissy and the Doc I hit the sack. What a
great day!
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11 January 2006
12:00:00
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Jeyjey Club, Marsabit,
GPS
N02 19.958 E037 49.412 Total mileage 10460 km
Author Chris
Parsons
Despite a comparatively late night there was a
palpable energy to the team this morning. I sensed an
unuttered understanding between us. This was it…..Kenya. The
Drive Home was completed in name if not yet in exact location
and the evidence was not only stamped in our increasingly
travel worn passports but also etched on the face of our
expedition leader. For the first time in 6 years he was back
and champing at the bit to get out there.
Everything
was packed away in record time and we found ourselves milling
around on the outskirts of Moyale high with expectant
enthusiasm, like school leavers anticipating the final ring of
the bell. Our escorting flotilla of lorries – with
accompanying armed guards – collected in our wake. In typical
African style the allotted departure time came and went, along
with a further 30 mins, before we were suddenly instructed to
follow a solitary truck out into the dessert. This lone vessel
overcrowded with livestock and people was the convoy. The
decision had been taken not to go it alone in light of the
very mixed reports we had been getting regarding the recent
activity, or lack there off, from the Shifta – armed marauding
rebels originally from Somalia. At the first checkpoint,
however, the convoy was delayed and we were ushered on with
the smiling guard’s reassurances ringing in our ears. All was
well in our isolated little world for about an hour, which was
passed keenly spotting infrequent wild life, marvelling at yet
more new awesome scenery and joyfully murdering all our
favourites from Col’s limited CD collection
Quite
suddenly, and for no discernable reason, Beryl’s steering
started protesting. The look of dejected frustration on
Woody’s face said it all. Here we go again! There followed
much manly chatting, with essential associated posturing and
arm folding, about impressive sounding mechanical stuff;
fervent fetching and carrying of tools; considerable loud
banging / ratcheting / cursing; impressively agile diving
under / into Beryl’s engine hood and we were tentatively on
our way again. Ten minutes later and the entire process was
repeated as the previously dented steering dampener was
reapplied. Woody had, yet again, patched her up but we were
limited to what would, in different circumstance, have been an
excruciating, tortoise like 30kph. Not today were we to have
our glory mood snatched from us in such a manner. Our reduced
rate of progress afforded us a better opportunity to fully
appreciate the gloriously barren wilderness we passed through.
Ben’s intermittent Mr Motivator style cries over the CB,
bizarrely, had the hoped for effect and our mood remained
bouyant as our planned 5 hour cross-badlands dash stretched
into a near 9 hour marathon. Just as the final embers of yet
another glorious sunset died in the enormous sky and we began
contemplating camping out for the night our destination,
Masserbit, edged onto our horizon.
Within a half hour
we’d procured a secluded grassed camping ground, struck camp
and were eagerly awaiting the arrival of, would you believe,
chicken, chips and beer via our new found guide Mohammed, when
fate had one last throw of his dice. Whilst nonchalenting
dispatching the aforementioned chicken for our dinner,
Mohammed had, equally nonchalantly, succeeded in nearly
separating the end of his thumb from the rest of the digit. As
my first helping of chips in months got cold and the much
needed beer warm I did what doctors do to such injuries before
myself turning, ravenously, to my starter and returning
Mohammed’s attention to the main course. Credit where it’s
due, despite his incapacitation, when supper finally arrived
it was gooooood, though the exact whereabouts of my 200 Kenyan
Shilling bottle deposit remained something of a mystery as we
all collapsed very gratefully into bed. Even the fear of yet
more forced changes to our plans couldn’t keep me from near
immediate sleep.
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12 January 2006
12:00:00
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Wild camping, Chalbi Desert, Kenya
Location –
GPS N03 00.403 E037 26.069 Total mileage 10584 km
Chris Parsons
In light of the minor mechanical
mishaps of yesterday all but Woody were afforded something of
a lie in today. He, for his sins, was up, as usual, at 6 to
commence the labourious, tedious and decidedly oily process of
stripping the steering box before lugging it down the road to
“the Indian mechanic”. I passed a blissful half hour snuggled
in my sleeping bag wondering at the abstract nature of the
value folk place on things. Whilst patching his hand last
night, Mohammed had given me something of an insight into
Kenyan society where the cow is revered as THE symbol of
wealth above all others. A typical dowry is a very handsome 10
cows. Given the ongoing 2 year drought currently decimating
livestock here, sadly, many locals are finding their perceived
wealth quite literally falling by the way side. I indulged
myself contemplating if my value system was as equally
fragile!
Before totally losing myself in such mental
meanderings my alarm jacked me back to reality and the morning
ritual of dressings Col’s burns for the day ahead. This done
and Woody was already returned contented that we could
continue as planned, much to our collective relief. We passed
the rest of the morning acquiring money and provisions for the
road ahead, ably assisted by our bandaged guide. It transpired
he has been compiling a journal of stories of his experiences
with tourists, which he hopes to publish, and requested for me
to compile a medical report regarding last nights incident to
be included. Naturally I happily complied but on handing him
the finished article took the opportunity to inquire about my
outstanding bottle deposit. With a tap of his breast pocket he
assured me he had it. Now this is a trifling sum of money but
I sensed the spectre of the permanent perseved gulf in wealth
was about to rear it’s ugly head once again. Sadly this most
marked of cultural clashes is becoming something of an over
powerful understudy to our otherwise faultless lead. Col
remains the star attraction where ever we go but the
charitable nature of our expedition is quickly, maybe even
understandably forgotten when the money issue is closer to
home. It seems nothing, even a helping hand, is for free here,
a lesson I learnt during my time spent working in Zimbabwe but
am finding shockingly difficult to swallow none the less. We
had already agreed an appropriate tip for his ever attentive
services, actually considerably more than he already held, yet
he steadfastly refused to hand it over, even requesting more.
My having saved him many times this amount on a hospital trip
the evening before was totally lost on him. To his mind this
was our fault because he was killing the chicken for our
supper. I think we all parted company slightly disappointed
which was a huge pity. We had all thought very highly of him
but our differing value sets simply failed to reach a mutually
satisfactory conclusion on this occasion, despite the best
efforts of all concerned.
My resultant melancholia
was, however, soon lifted by yet another singularly
spectacular day on the road. We traversed the Chabli dessert
en route to Lake Tukana passing just one other vehicle all
day. Once again I was dumbfounded by the vaste, harsh beauty
of the landscape. The bleached coral like scrub littering the
dessert floor over shadowed by the strikingly wide and flat
topped trees, so reminiscent of a nonchalant waiter’s wrist
cocked back-the-way carrying an empty tray. The pepper corn
black rocks smattered over the too dry desert floor as through
sprinkled from above. The painter’s palate of colours of
something so basic as sand – yellow, red, orange, black,
purple, white – was especially impressive.
All too
quickly we found ourselves witnessing yet another of Africa’s
all consuming sunsets and so turned right, drove some 10 yards
off the track and stood back to survey our home for the night,
a billiard table flat salt pan that stretched, featureless to
every horizon. This almost incomprehensibly simple, stunningly
expanse was being swept by an unfathomably warm wind so we
opted to all sleep out under the stars around the fire.
Despite being quite exhausted from days events my marvelling
at the ever inspiring clear star packed African night sky
tempted me stoke the fire and round off a truly tremendous day
by pushing back the realms of sleep until dawn, however I was
set on driving tomorrow so admitted defeat and drifted into
sleep, yet again with the now near permanent grim stretched
across my increasingly bearded face.
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13 January 2006
12:00:00
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El Molo Camp, Lake Turkana, Kenya
GPS N02
45.599 E036 43.365 Total mileage 10748 km
Author: Colin
Javens
I awoke this morning with the wind blowing
small particles of dust all over me. As I looked around I
could see the expedition team were beginning to stir from
their nights sleep after camping on their mattresses under the
night sky in the Chalbi desert. Like a scene from the Walton’s
the morning greetings began to be called out around the camp.
As I continued to look around I was struck again by the
magnitude of the desert; the immense size of the African sky
and the contrast of colours between the golden sand and
turquoise sky. In the short time that I was looking the wind
had already strengthened, which made the job of dressing my
burns for the Doc and Chrissy that much harder.
With
improvisation being key to the success of the expedition so
far it was even more evident this morning. As I looked up and
took one look at the Doc I couldn’t help but laugh. He had his
Kikoi rapped around his neck and his great big ginger beard
was erupting over the top of the kikoi and above that he had
his ski goggles on to keep the sand out of his eyes. Yet this
wasn’t enough. Both Chrissy and the Doc had to delve
underneath the duvet, dressings in hand to try to prevent any
sand getting on my burns. Travelling in these remote regions
has really taught us how to adapt to difficult situations.
With the team on a real high we set off again across
the open desert that seemed to resemble an ancient lake bed.
The fine soft sand that we where driving through seemed to be
capped by a hard crusty layer. With Ben riding shotgun we both
knew that navigation was going to be difficult today but I
wasn’t expecting it to be as challenging as it was. I must
admit Ben’s skills really came into there own today. The sand
track that we followed seemed to fork and split at every
unexpected turn, but at each occasion I had a confident
instruction on the direction to go in. The driving was also
really challenging but speaking for myself and going by Ben’s
enormous grin I can say that we all thoroughly enjoyed
ourselves.
As the day wore on the sandy desert changed
into what looked like the rocky surface of Mars or more like
the result of a volcanic eruption, which meant at times we had
to drive over large boulders and as a result really slowed us
down. As the hours ticked away the anticipation of arriving at
Lake Turkana (the lake I had been to 10 years ago) began to
build and build. At every crest of the hill we expected to see
the ‘Jade Sea’, but on three occasions we were denied. It
wasn’t until after 6 hours of constant driving that we climbed
the final escarpment and looked down on the lake. It had been
a long challenging day but as Ben said ‘We are incredibly
lucky to be here’ and I think I whole heartedly agree with
him. We reached our destination at Loyengalani pretty tried
and hot but the team still mustered the energy to have a sweep
out of our two dusty Land Rovers. What a great day (again).
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14 January 2006
12:00:00
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El Malo campsite, Lake Turkana, Kenya
Author
Kiko Matthews
Lake Turkana is supposedly one of the
hottest places in Kenya so the night had been spent outside of
our tents again, Chrissy in the hammock, Col, Ben and Woody
lying under the palm trees and Chris and me in the tents.
Around 8am, our friend Angelo came to pick us up and
take us for a days fishing and croc watching! A short drive
over to the shore of the lake and then came for the mission of
getting Col in to the boat. We parked up in the El Malo tribe
village which consisted of mud huts and loads of children!!!
Their dress is very colourful and the girls all wear these
huge beaded necklaces and head dresses which look beautiful.
Strangely, the beads are imported from India and then they
make all the jewellery themselves. It’s actually quite
difficult to tell the difference between the young girls and
boys because they all have short hair and the clothes are not
really male or female. However, apparently the girls wear a
single colourful necklace to distinguish themselves.
Getting Col into the boat was ummm….interesting! We
all had to gather round the boat, lift him up on to the front,
get the wheelchair in, secure it and then transfer him back on
to the chair. The locals, as per usual, were all fascinated
and practically the whole village were down at the shore
watching us. (Chris has got to the point where he asks for
money from the locals to watch Col, if and when they are rude
enough to ask for money from us!)
Off on our little
expedition, which turned out to be exactly that - little!!
Angelo had told us a price for the fishing (which they did,
and not us) and the croc watching for which he said we could
go for as long as we wanted. As it turned out, we were gone
for 1 ½ hours because there wasn’t enough petrol in
the tank! Typical.
Angelo took us to see some
medicinal hot springs one carbonated that helps with diarrhoea
and the other that flushes you out (just sounds like all the
other water that we come across!). Then for the catch! Angelo
and his mate he has bought along aren’t friends but guides and
so wanted money for all this. Yes, we still haven’t learnt! We
got into a dispute about the whole thing because to be honest,
the fishing trip and croc watching wasn’t really what we were
expecting plus he had never mentioned anything about wanting
money to organise it for us.
The afternoon was spent
relaxing by the pool and around the camp – a bit hot to really
do much else. Col met a guy who ‘gave’ him a lovely wooden wee
bowl (actually a fruit bowl) and then surprise surprise he
wanted something in return! A lift to Maralal, for his mate
the following day, and a Driving Home t-shirt! Nothing in this
country (or any of the others for that matter) is for free and
you just have to be so careful what you accept from people -
we’re learning though!
The usual dinner scene around a
fire munching on Chinese stir fry to make a change,
accompanied by Col’s new mate, who by now, was totally
intoxicated! In the distance we could hear drums, music and
shouting which apparently was a ritual circumcision of a young
tribal boy. The male circumcision still regularly occurs but
as for female circumcision, the woman now has the choice
rather than like that for the boy.
It was a slight
shame about the payment dispute we had earlier with Angelo
because it created a bit of an atmosphere around the camp with
us and the locals but apart from that it was a good day. Our
first sightings of the croc!
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15 January 2006
12:00:00
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Yare camp, Maralal, Kenya
GPS N01
03.520 E036 42.673 Total mileage 10986 km
Author: Chrissy
Prydun
At 6am my alarm yet again resonated, this time
across Lake Turkana, and as usual I had to do the mad scramble
to locate it. This time unbeknown to me it had fallen from my
sleeping bag into grassy undergrowth during the night. Yep,
most of us had opted to sleep out under the stars again. A
warm and balmy night devoid of mosquitoes and with a light
breeze had presented the perfect opportunity to do so and I
got dibs on Col's hammock again. I love sleeping in it
After downing warm leftover beers and stale peanut
butter sandwiches for breakfast we all crammed into the cars.
We had also offered to take one of the locals to a town along
our drive so he sat on the roof. Luckily because he was
transporting a bag full of potent fish!
On today’s hot
drive via Baragoi the scenery changed dramatically every hour.
Initially we drove on bumpy volcanic pebbles along the
turquoise waters of Lake Turkana. From here we ascended into
more mountainous scenery with jagged blue peaks in the
distance whilst spotting the occasional ostrich. Here the
creek beds were at an all time low due to the drought
afflicting the area and the roads were at their roughest. Kiko
who I was accompanying today handled the slippery sands and
rocky drive particularly well, although in one heart racing
incident the back right wheel lost it’s track on a bump.
Naturally Kiko reacted quickly but over-correcting with the
steering wheel caused the back end to fishtail momentarily out
of her control. Luckily she regained control of the car
although our hearts continued to race for a few minutes later.
It just goes to show how easy it is to roll the cars,
particular the Defender due to it’s higher centre of gravity.
It reminds me of a story we heard recently. When we
were in Wadi Halfa, the guy helped us sort our visas told us a
story about a British woman and her sons who had purchased two
Landrovers and had been concerned about them due to their lack
of knowledge and experience with driving the cars.
Unfortunately we heard in Marsabit from the locals that the
woman had been killed in a car accident. It certainly sent
shivers up our spine and reminded us how carefully we had to
drive.
Tonight we escaped the heat to set up camp in
hill top Maralell after a particularly scenic stretch with
dark dead tree silhouettes jutting into the afternoon sky,
pine tree runs and open grassy yellow fields. Kiko, Chris and
Woody head off to the camp site’s restaurant to indulge in a
chicken curry meal. Meanwhile Ben hangs around perfecting his
guitar playing skills which Col and I listened to as we
complete his routine. Ben then treats us to a delicious and
simple tomato, tuna and chilli pasta which the three of us
hungrily gobbled while chilling out in Col’s side awning (i.e.
mobile bathroom). With the exception of Chris, the boys sleep
out again tonight, while this time I ditch the hammock and
join Kiko in the tent for an overnight night session of
overdue gossip and giggling.
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16 January 2006
12:00:00
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Ol Malo lodge, Laikipia, Kenya
GPS
N00 39.379 E036 52.430 Total mileage 11054 km
Author:
Chrissy Prydun
Camplife at 6am: Ben is searching
frantically for his flip flop believing it has been abducted
by a baboon in the night. Col remains hidden from icy early
morning dew underneath the warmth of his duvet having camped
out for the night. Woody scrapes through his limited remainder
of clean clothing kit for his wake up shower session. Kiko
disassembles the awning and photographs birds in between
multiple loo runs and I stick my head out of the tent in order
to begin my early morning younger sister style taunting of the
Doc who has groggily emerged from his tent with lighter and
cigarette in hand for his early morning nicotine fix.
This morning is great. We wake up early as usual but
since we know we only have a short day of trucking ahead of us
it gives us the perfect opportunity to sit down at the table
like a family for a leisurely breakfast after our pack up.
This makes a nice change from the usual breakfast on the go
mad dash.
I am back in the drivers seat and decide to
take charge of the iPod on the short drive. Today Ben spots a
suspect horse (on closer inspection his first Zebra) chasing
an ostrich, in roadrunner style across the red and flat dusty
landscape.
Armed with a grid reference for the
Frankhams (friends of Col’s family) Ben chooses an off the
beaten track style of navigation today (something I don’t mind
as the more bush bashing the more practice I get) but as per
usual trustily navigates us to the Frankham ranch with near
perfection.
We are greeted by the warm and down to
earth Frankham family: Colin, Rocky, Andrew and his girlfriend
Chulu in their beautiful estate. They run a 5 star ranch with
a series of bungalows sat atop the edge of a volcanic lava
flow. The bungalows are something out of this world
beautifully decorated with local handicrafts, natural fibres
and woods and connected via a series of wooden pathways
through tropical, cacti dotted gardens. With their cliftop
positioning and extra large windows, they offer sweeping views
of the valley below and we are all blown away, thrilled and
privileged to be offered the $400 per night rooms to sleep in
free of charge. There are also several outdoor and indoor
entertaining areas as well as a clifftop pool from which you
can browse at the animals below drinking from the nearby
wateringhole. For some of us this is the first time we have
stayed anywhere so extravagant and breathtaking and find it
difficult to contain our excitement like little kids at
Christmas. Kiko palpitates over the room she has scored for
herself complete with jacuzzi and bed each big enough for
three. The grim brothers are yet again roomies in an equally
fitted penthouse style set-up and Ben, Col and I turn
hyperactive at the sight of the honeymoon suite we will shack
up in tonight!
The rest of the day seems like a dream
in which we are all abducted from the familiarity of our
camping, roughing it, not showering world into an oasis of
luxury! We spend the afternoon drinking beers and shandy’s and
indulging on crusty bread with real butter and local honey. We
are used to our accountant Kiko (Mummy Matthews) rationing our
treats and are overwhelmed that we are able to help ourselves
to multiple servings of chocolate and gingernut cookies.
However, the real surprise of the afternoon is
delivered in a light aircraft. Col’s mum Val and partner John
having arrived in Kenya the day before are flown by family
friends the Barlow’s (who we will meet in GilGil in a few days
time) to the estate for an early surprise. From here on in Col
wears his trademark grin for the entire day. The rest of the
evening is spent catching up and reminiscing. Retelling
numerous driving home anecdotes over a camp fire we realise
just how enjoyable and fulfilling our trip has been to date.
To top it off we are treated to a BBQ. I have to say I am not
a big red meat eater, nor do I particularly crave it, but
after all the vege curries and variations of tuna on pasta or
potato dishes we have eaten, I am absolutely blown away by the
tender pieces of marinated meat Andrew serves us. I have never
tasted meat so succulent and we are all reduced to a bunch of
grinning idiots with meat juice dribbling down our chins. That
night having indulged in one two many beers I end up with
extra responsibility. I act as personal assistant for both Col
and Ben who I room with for the night during the bedding down
routine! At least Ben tucks himself into bed.
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17 January 2006
12:00:00
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Ol Malo Lodge, Laikipia, Kenya
Author
Kiko Matthews
We are all awoken by the early morning
sunshine streaming in our bedrooms through the huge bay
windows – what an amazing way to start the morning. It’s like
being in heaven! What’s more, we are then treated to another
feast – breakfast, consisting of bacon, sausage, egg, tomato,
Weetabix, fresh fruit, toast and fruit juice!! Mmmmmmmmmm This
is absolutely amazing.
This was a day of relaxing, at
last, which makes the most refreshing change from our life on
the road where the only time we are free from work is as a
passenger. Our time on the road and the experiences we have
had, have been amazing but also very tiring. Morning starts at
6am, on the road by 8am with a cuppa, orange and few biscuits,
a days trucking, when if we are lucky enough, we stop for a
short lunch break. Having located a suitable camp spot around
6 we then all set about preparing the tents and our vehicles
while two of us (not Chris or Col) start creating a feast fit
for a king (a combination and variation on the theme of veg,
chilli, tomato and tuna, with rice, potato or pasta!). After
having eaten, it is washing and tidying up then bed, so this
stay with the Frankham’s is a much needed break and huge
relief.
Some of us relaxed by the pool while others
check out their new house that they are in the process of
building. Typical English tea at 5 and then the boys head for
the hideout to do some animal spotting. Chrissy attends to
Col’s daily routine while I stay behind to help with any
lifting that Chrissy needs help with. When the boys return,
the three of us who remained up at the lodge are very jealous
to find out that they have been lucky enough to spot a female
leopard and her two cubs drinking from the watering hole. I’m
sure that we get opportunities to see something like this
again – well, we are in the wild animal capital of the world
so I hope so! Chris managed to capture it on video so we did
see what we are lucky enough to see what missed out on.
Unfortunately, the elephants that often frequent the 5000 acre
ranch decided not to make an appearance (I did hear them
earlier in the morning though) but we did get to see warthogs,
hyrats (friendly type fluffy African marmots) genet cats,
impala, zebra and their pet, greater kudu.
Chrissy and
I decided that a fringe would suit me so while we were waiting
for the boys to return, our great idea of giving me a fringe
was put into practice. Yikes, I now look like a school girl
from the 80’s (thank god for sunglasses that can act as a hair
band and the 3 months we have left before we reach
civilisation!). I have to say that I wouldn’t really recommend
Chissy as a top stylist! Oh well, things could be worse!
After dinner, I think our relaxing day had tired us
all out, so early to bed in our 5 * accommodation. I could
stay here for ever. We have been so lucky to stay here – it
has been amazing. THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!
Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz.
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18 January 2006
12:00:00
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Roberts Camp, Lake Baringo, Kenya
GPS
N00 36.732 E036 01.436
Author Kiko Matthews
Another amazing start to the morning but just a few
hours earlier! A fond farewell to the Frankham family then
off, back on the road for our short 150km drive east to Lake
Baringo.
The roads are continuously improving from the
dusty, rubble, stoney tracks up north, to the now asphalt
roads which even though still have pot holes in, they do
enable us to drive a little faster and so cover more mileage.
The Moyale to Marsabit road we drove along as we first hit
Kenya, was dreadful and we were probably driving at about an
average of 25-30km/hr where as on these type of roughish
asphalt, we can do more like 70-80 km/hr.
By 3pm we
have arrived at our beautiful lakeside destination and we
decide to not bother with setting up camp, but to go and spend
some quality time together doing some team bonding. We head
for The Thirst Goat bar/restaurant and get a round (or few) of
Tusker beers in. Ben and Col invent a new intellectual
drinking game which involved a Hoselock garden sprayer and
water. Sitting in a circle, we took it in turns to ask the
person to our left, a question on one of the countries we had
been through, so starting with Jersey we worked our way
through to Ethiopia. If you got the answer wrong, the
questioner would spray you as much as they liked with water. A
very refreshing game since the temperature must have been in
the mid 30’s. The drinking part came in because you had to
drink while you thought of the answer. It was really nice to
actually have this moment as a team to relax together without
worrying about anything. You can tell that Col is home by the
constant beaming smile across his face and I think we are all
feeling some of his emotion as well.
I turned in to
bed, a bit earlier than the others, i was half way to the tent
when one of the wardens told me to be careful because there
were hippo’s in the camp! When I asked him to show me, he was
more than willing to take me off into the bushes to show me
these humungous mammals. So I missed out on the leopards but
did manage to see the hippo’s (and I also got to see a croc
10meters from me, the following morning).
By the time
the others came to bed, I think, from the noise levels, that
everyone was very happy and had had a good night! Tomorrow we
were heading for the Barlow’s, where Col would consider his
most recent Kenyan home, where he had spent many summers
working on a farm, prior to his accident. I imagine he must
have been very excited – he had almost ‘Driven Home’, our half
way marker!
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19 January 2006
12:00:00
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Barlow residence, Gilgil, Kenya. Arriving
Home
Author:
Colin Javens
I awoke to the unmistakable sound of a
fish eagle and the deep throated call of communicating African
doves and to me that could only mean one thing. We where in
the Rift Valley and not very far from Gilgil and the Barlows,
the place where I had come to know as home since I left Kenya
in 1986.
We only had just over 100 kilometres to cover
that day and the urge to get in Beryl and driving south was
becoming unbearable. However the previous day’s dusty drive
meant that the team were as ever, diligently giving the
vehicles a good clean out. Which meant that we didn’t end up
leaving until 9.30am that morning? I think the inane grin on
my face gave away the fact that I was exited as I pushed the
ignition button that spurred Beryl into life. That was it, we
were off. 100 kilometres or 2 hours and I would be back in
Gilgil. We turned onto the first tarmac road we had been on
since Ethiopia and just as we did we received a text message
asking us if we could delay our arrival until 4pm that
afternoon. Boy! Did that make me feel like a little kid who
was denied the opportunity to open his Christmas presents
until the afternoon.
Not to worry. Everybody seemed
hungry so it gave us the opportunity for us to stop off and
chow down on some meat somosa’s in a truck stop called Safari
Bite on the way out of Nakuru. 10 somosa’s later (each for the
boys) and we hit the road again. With all the tarmac roads we
travelled on the one from Nakuru to Gilgil has to be the
worst. Not only do you have to dodge the crater-like potholes
but you almost have to veer off the road to get out of the way
of oncoming, snaking buses laden with passengers or overloaded
Scania lorries almost careering out control towards you. With
the last kilometres to go the very familiar sight of Lake
Elementita with a pink dusting of Flamingo’s and Lord D’s nose
in the distance appeared of the crest of a hill- a sight that
I have longed to see for a very long time.
One week
before Valerina Javens had flown out to Kenya to meet us on
our arrival and knowing that she would be there just added to
the excitement. Navigating on known roads I drove through
Gilgil heading for the Barlows. Ben next to me was going nuts
with excitement. I don’t think his bum touched the seat all
the way there. As we turned onto the Barlows drive I could see
three very familiar figures waving frantically in the
distance. As we got nearer I could see that it was Mum,
Sarelle and John and as I came to a halt my door opened and
there was mum in tears. For some strange reason (maybe it was
the build up or Ben’s frantic excitement) I burst into a fit
of giggles. Minutes later Flash and Nikki Barlow arrived and
it felt like we had made it. We then had to carry out the old
tradition of sinking a few Tuskers. Happy Days!
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20 January 2006
12:00:00
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Location – Barlows, Gilgil Kenya
Author
Kiko Matthews
After a rather big night to celebrate
our arrival, we all awoke mid-morning a bit bleary eyed! We
had kindly been allowed to sleep down in the Polo club so it
was a bit like being in a dormitory all together-very cosy!
Not much happened today because we took it as an
excuse to relax and make the most of the Barlows kind
hospitality. I tried to get this diary off for everyone, but
with only 1 internet connection in the town, that you couldn’t
connect a USB cable to, it meant no luck unfortunately. In the
evening though, it was a trip to the infamous Gilgil Club we
had heard so much about. We all rocked up at about 8 o’clock
to this white-Kenyan run sports/social club only to be
welcomed with open arms, smiles and bombarded with questions!
I think they had been expecting us!!
By about 5am it
was time to go home!! I think we all deserved this since we
have worked really hard and everyone needs some fun once in a
while! A few too many Tuskers perhaps but Col was very happy
for sure. Some fond memories back at this place gave him
reason to be, I guess.
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21 January 2006
12:00:00
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At the Barlows
I’m afraid
to say it was another late morning which is hardly surprising
since Chrissy and Col didn’t get to bed until just before
6am!! Brunch at around 12.30 and then the boys (excluding
Chris) went off to see around Flash’s farm near Naivasha. This
was particularly interesting for Col and Woody who had both
been to Harper Adams Agricultural College and love anything to
do with farming and machinery!!
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22 January 2006
12:00:00
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Settling in at the polo club
After our
series of inebriated sleep-in’s we decided to get back into
the swing of things and set the alarm for 8.00 but when I
awoke to the sound of the usual snoring and trumpeting
emanating from the depths of the boys sleeping bags I noticed
that Kiko was missing in action. It seems the poor thing had
managed to pick up another 24hour stomach bug and had spent
the wee hours camped out near the toilet. As such she opted to
spend the day in bed. After our usual Barlow Buffet Breakfast
Feast (how will we ever return to subsisting on stale peanut
butter sandwiches after our time in Kenya?) Chris continued
backing-up film footage while Ben and I headed into town for a
refill i.e. to pick up another 3 crates of beer and two
bottles of wine. The Barlows, Val and John headed to a
christening that morning and upon returning the rest of us
jumped in the cars and headed to family friend’s of Col’s for
another afternoon of indulgence. Frank, Lyn and their daughter
Tash were the hosts and we were spoilt with another assortment
of barbequed meats, Mediterranean salads and bottomless
glasses of pimms with lemonade. Nikki and I had to lie down
from overeating, a feeling I haven’t experienced for a long
time. Kenya feels like the refuel point of the trip. Not only
have our cars been serviced and cleaned ready for part two of
our adventure, but it seems that another mission of all our
hosts has been to intentionally or not plump us all back to
our regular weights, having arrived in Kenya looking gaunt and
withered (or so we have been told). It will be difficult to
return to our usual meal plans after feasting like Kings. To
top off an entertaining afternoon we headed down to Lake
Elementita (or Lake Elephentitis as Woody would refer to it)
for sundowners: a Kenyan tradition, quite literally having
drinks in a scenic spot while watching the sun setting and
it’s some performance. Kenya has sunsets to rival those I’ve
seen in the greek islands: spectacular! Before we set up next
to the lake with our beers and wines we drive around the lake
to spot some of the local game: warthog’s, waterbucks,
buffalo, eland, and gazelles to name a few. The drawcard of
Lake Elementita: the flamingos. Apparently the turnout was
quite disappointing, nonetheless the flamingos that had landed
on the lake formed an amazing pink layer on top of the
glasslike water which formed a vivid contrast on the horizon.
A couple of hours of chit chat and drinks later and we headed
home via somewhat of a longcut or scenic route i.e. we got a
bit lost. Yet again we took advantage of the detour, in Ben’s
case he jumped out of the car to chase some jack rabbits and
when we returned to the Barlow’s we thought we’d do a few laps
of the polo pitch and try our luck to see if we could spot
some hippo. Sure enough we were all dumbfounded when we caught
one staring at us under illuminated high-beams, immediately
after veering onto the pitch. This was followed by all the
aptly suited expressions of exclamation to illustrate our
surprise. From here on in we began to refer to the polo pitch
and club as the hippo pitch and club respectively. Nikki
assures us that by the next time we return to Gil Gil they
would have kickstarted a new sport: hippo polo!
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23 January 2006
12:00:00
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Today, it
was off to yet another of the Javens’s family friends, Debbie
and Mike Ghaui who lived up a very bad dirt track, close to
Lake Naivasha. Mike is one of Africa’s top artists and animal
sculpters and we could see why.(www.mag-wildlife-art.com then
contact mag.art@africanonline.co.ke for Password and user ID)
We had a very relaxed lunch with yet another
delightful family in a beautiful setting. Thank you!!!
Delicious!
After lunch, we went for a tour of the
studio when we had a slight accident/excitement!! We were all
stood outside the studio looking at some skulls and skeletons,
when Col decided to move his chair around but unfortunately
actually managed to tip it over!! So there we all were
chatting away and the next thing we see is Col slowly tipping
backwards. Ben shouts out “don’t move mate!” to which Col
replies “it’s ok, I’m not going anywhere!” The jokes that Col
has to put up with are endless but it’s very refreshing to
hear and see him joking about his disability. There are a few
people who could learn from him – if you laugh about your
misfortunes it makes life so much easier for you and those
around you.
Another large, tasty meal and Tuskers in
the evening, a call from the Project Managers to discuss all
these communication issues we’re having with the computer and
then bedtime.
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24 January 2006
12:00:00
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school visits
After our
few days of well earned and much needed R&R it was
back to work, of sorts, today. Fuelled by yet another
phenomenal 3 course breakfast the team divided and headed our
separate ways. Kiko and Woody where dispatched with a list of
errands ranging from acquiring yet another replacement gas
cylinder to picking up food and funds for the forthcoming run
into Nairobi. In the meantime the remainder of the team made
for a secondary school, Greensteds, in nearby Nakuru to
continue driving home the message that there is life after
spinal injury.
We were met at the gates by another old
Javens’ family friend, Dudu, one of the teachers at Greensteds
who directed us to our pitch for the next few hours. Col was
soon out of the Disco and the roof tent erected as the first
of three audiences started filing past into the relaxed
environment of the common room where Col was to be speaking.
In keeping with our previous experience of such occasions the
children were attentive, amazed and asked some very sensible
and searching questions - Col’s still pondering his definition
of courage. The less formal surroundings worked well with our
increasingly interactive presentation. As ever, the
demonstration of the hoist and hand controls in the vehicle
had them enthralled. On each of the three occasions we ran
through the by now well oiled routine, they had to be ushered
reluctantly back to class. Several wandered back during their
lunch break for a second look and to chat further with Col.
One young man even asked to write about Col in one of the
national newspapers, his father being the editor!! Some three
hours after our arrival we packed away our kit and headed
expectantly back to Gilgil for lunch. The whole affair nearly
went without a hitch but out of sympathy for Col’s wee tumble
yesterday I obliged a small residual crowd with my own roll in
the dirt. As I went to jump from the roof I caught my trailing
foot in the roof rack throwing me badly of balance. My landing
was less than graceful and scared the living daylights out of
Ben who’s feet my sack of potatoes impression ended besides.
Luckily I suffered no more than a scratched left elbow and
badly dented pride.
Our plan for the day had included
a trip to Lake Nakuru National park where we hoped to see,
amongst other things, some rhino, Val and John had counted 16
on a trip there last week. However, as has been all to often
the case, on our being reunited with the rest of the team it
was decided there was too much work to be done in preparation
for Nairobi. We passed the rest of the day packing and
cleaning the vehicles. The finishing touches were also put to
a wooden box to be bolted to the roof of Beryl to house Col’s
tent, bed and awning. Our website address was painted on the
front with two decidedly manly warthog beneath. Although it
didn’t quite compensate fully for missing out on the National
park it was great to see Col with a paint brush in his hand
again.
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26 January 2006
12:00:00
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At Susie Allen's
Early
morning pack away as we prepared for our next leg – Nairobi.
We are returning to Gilgil on Saturday but firstly we must go
to Nairobi in order to get our vehicles serviced.
First stop though is a trip to one of the local prep
schools, Pembroke, in Gilgil where Nikki Barlow and Colin’s
brother went years ago. We arrived at 11 to see all the
children (7-13year olds) piling into the chapel to await our
arrival. Apparently the whole school day had been changed to
fit in with our visit so we felt very privileged.
The
kids had a look around the vehicles and then it was back into
the chapel where Col and the rest of us had to sit up at the
front and address the school. Colin seems to becoming more and
more relaxed with his public speaking which is good because
I’m assuming there’s a lot more of it to come especially after
the trip. Question time as always produced some very honest
questions and one quite funny one
“Why do you have a
wonky eye?”
It turns out that Ben had actually found a
kid and asked him to ask Colin this! When we were in Jersey,
one of the young boys had asked Colin why he had a bump on his
head (which he doesn’t!) and it has been a bit of a joke ever
since!
When it came to saying goodbye, we were loading
up Col into the Disco and because it wasn’t quite on the flat,
moving the hoist inwards to get Col into the vehicle, was
difficult. I went to push the jack up a bit, slipped and
released the catch which normally lowers Col into his seat. As
this was unexpected and the wrong time, Col went crashing
towards the concrete floor!! Fortunately for me, Chrissy was
holding his legs so no harm was done but it just goes to show
how easy things can go wrong even when it’s something that we
do at least twice a day. I felt quite bad but mistakes happen
and we just lean that we always have to be careful even if we
are ‘professionals’ by now!
After, our very successful
morning at the school, it was back to the Barlow’s for lunch
then at around 3 we set off Nairobi (Nairobbery!).
From now on, we are told the roads are tarmac all the
way (if we want!) and you can actually get to Cape Town in
about a week. So, our 100km (approx) shouldn’t take us more
than a couple of hours once we have found our destination. We
arrive just in time for a cup of tea and fresh ginger
shortbreads made by Ebi, Susie’s cook. If you can afford it,
then it seems to be that you have cooks, guards, cleaners, etc
which is great because it helps with employment of the locals.
Susie’s son Jan, and daughter-in-law Erin, join us for
supper and we yet again share the stories we have experienced
so far. When you stop and talk to people about what we’ve done
and where we’ve been, it makes you realise just how much we
have actually achieved in the past 12 weeks and I think we
deserve this half way rest (even now though, there’s still
always things to be done so not really a rest from everything,
just camping, cooking and cold showers!) 10pm bed (early night
at last!).
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27 January 2006
12:00:00
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Nairobi
The first
day in Nairobi (suburbs) was spent doing catch-up diary,
computer issue solving, vehicle repairs down at CMC and for
Col, meeting a local 22 year old tetraplegic.
Unfortunately our computer and it’s supposed fancy
mobile internet connection hasn’t been working for a long time
– since Egypt actually – and we haven’t been able to work out
why. This has meant a lot off extra work for everyone
especially me, as communications lady. All our diary entries
were supposed to be sent daily via the internet connection and
also, our e-mail with messages, plans etc was also supposed to
be able to be retrieved when ever there was a mobile signal.
Due to the fact that the mobile connection wasn’t working, it
has meant that we have had to use internet cafes which are few
and far between and we never seem to have time when we’re on
the road, to be stopping to do such things. As a result we
have got very behind on entries and it has been quite
stressful but sorry for that. Anyway, Jan introduced us to a
young guy today who managed to solve the reason why – our dial
out number is a 0800 number which is only useful in the UK –
no one knows how it has worked at all so far but at least we
now know. Hopefully we are going to get a new number which can
be used from other countries – crazy but true!
Vehicle
repairs on the defender all went to plan – a simple service
and hand brake cable but for the Disco it was a little more
complicated. Colin had managed to snap the torsion bar in his
adapted steering box and the guys at CMC were having problems
fixing it. This would mean returning tomorrow to check it over
some more.
Ben was also at the garage sorting out the
off-road wheelchair that has been made especially for this
expedition by Molten Rock. Hellen, the Logistics lady at CMC
Land Rover had very kindly been sorting out the customs and
paperwork required for this to enter Kenya and this is who Ben
was liaising with. She was extremely helpful in sorting out
payments etc, and when I met her (actually tomorrow, Friday)
she put me in a really good mood. A really genuine, helpful,
friendly lady who, as a way of thanks, we gave a Driving Home
T-shirt to. Thank you so much for all your help.
Chrissy and myself were went off to stock up on food
and other necessaries for when we hit the road again, while
Chris and Col met Casey, the Kenyan who had had a driving
accident and was now tetraplegic and had less movement than
Col. Col really enjoyed meeting her and he said later on, to
me, how lucky he felt to have had his injury as a UK citizen.
The care and everything else that comes with his disability,
is so much better in the UK than in Kenya, where there is
little recognition of spinal injuries, available care and
resources.
In the afternoon, Chris and I attempted
e-mailing the diaries from an internet café but
unfortunately I failed because my camera ran out of batteries
before the relevant files were attached (we save the documents
on a camera via its memory card then take it to a)! I felt
like crying!!!
Delicious, relaxed meal in the evening
with everyone, exchangig stories and solving mind games. Nice
early night for everyone because me, Ben and Woody had to be
down at CMC for 8am (rush hour traffic in Nairobi to get
through!) and Col, Chris and Chrissy had to be at KPO (Kenyan
Paraplegic Organisation) for 9am.
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28 January 2006
12:00:00
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Kenya Paraplegic Association
Another
early morning start to prepare for our visit to KPO in
Nairobi. Seven months previously the expedition team had
organised a dinner and dance in Hereford specifically for our
‘African Beneficiaries’ and along with some money raised
during a sports day in Gilgil we were able to make our first
donation to KPO prior to our arrival in Nairobi.
We
where staying in Langata at Susie Allen’s house. Unfortunately
our vehicles still weren’t ready which meant Yan Allen kindly
drove the Doc, Chrissy and I to the KPO office. We arrived at
9am to meet the directors of KPO, incidentally the majority of
which were spinally injured. After a formal introduction we
were able to see where our money was spent. Apart from the
wheelchairs and urinary equipment I was able to meet 1 of the
KPO staff who visited the KASI project in Moshi.
I was
very impressed by the organisation. Although it was still
relatively young I could tell that the members were very
motivated and keen to make a difference. Originally KPO was
set up purely to provide wheelchairs for people who had
suffered from a SCI in Kenya. This is important because the
average person only receives an average of $1/day and with
wheelchairs costing $200 it is virtually impossible for an
individual to buy one. However they quickly realised that KPO
had the potential to support their members in other ways. With
that in mind we left for to visit The National Spinal Injury
Centre of Kenya to see how KPO was supporting them.
The National Spinal Injury Centre is based 300 yards
away from the KPO office which meant we could all depart on
foot like a herd of migrating wheelchair users down the road.
As we arrived I looked down the drive and was met by the sight
of a large marquee, filled with guests in front of the
hospital with a large loudspeaker unit that looked like it was
prepared for some awaiting speeches. Instantly I felt
overwhelmed. I knew they were preparing a welcome for us but I
didn’t realise it was to that extent. However, before any of
the formality took place I was invited to have a look around
the hospital. Lead by the chief doctor and followed by a group
of guest we looked around the unit to learn how they operate.
The hospital is set up to capacitate 40 patients, but
at any one time there is a waiting list of over 100 people.
While they are waiting they develop serious problems like
pressure sores and urinary infections. Those who have money
fly to South Africa, Belgium or the U.K for hospital care and
treatment. I was really impressed by the hospital. Considering
they get very little support from the government for
everything like the general upkeep of buildings to basic
medicines and equipment (like hoists, adjustable height beds,
urinary equipment etc, etc) it was still in very good
condition. A patient generally stays there for 6 to 8 months
and after they leave they get no other support medically or
financially and they have to rely on their families to look
after them. The positive thing was that although there is
limited financial support there are good techniques in place.
Using ward rounds patients aren’t allowed to leave until the
doctor, physio, OT and nursing staff think that they are
medically healthy and have learnt enough.
This is
where KPO’s work has already benefited the hospital. They have
set up a counselling unit and trained 2 spinally injured
people to run it. They are also adding to their membership to
try to (as I understood it) to provide a support network which
works in an equivalent way to SIA in the UK. Although I was
impressed, the visit due to the lack of support, made me feel
very lucky to have all my hospital care and rehabilitation in
the U.K. I think that if I had my spinal injury in Kenya I may
not be alive today and this is why I feel so lucky.
After our visit we congregated in the front of the
hospital and made our speeches in front of the National Media
(including TV. Days later we were recognised by some staff in
a petrol station.). It felt good to have helped KPO with
equipment and to help raise their profile and I hope they
continue to grow and to help more Kenyan’s with a SCI. I just
hope we will be able to help them in the future.
Other
facts that I learnt:
We were unable to get an estimate of
the total number of people with an SCI in Kenya, however we
did learn that the majority of patients are male. 60% of those
are a result of RTA’s and a staggering 20% are from
violence/shootings.
It takes a staggering 6 months for
a wheelchair to be delivered from the time of ordering to the
arrival date.
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29 January 2006
12:00:00
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Back in Gilgil
Today was
the end of our short but enjoyable visit to Nairobi. I would
like to say a big thank you to our hosts: Sue, Jan and Erin –
you guys certainly made us feel very welcome.
Up and
out the door fairly early, where we all went back down to CMC
Motors to pay our bill for the additional spares that we
needed and also to pay labour costs for the guys who helped
strip down the steering box in Col’s Disco. From here the
group separated, a couple of the guys went shopping (the Doc
is in touch with his feminine side) and hopefully emailing
back home a few more diary entries. While Col, Woody, Chrissy
and myself were off to KPO (Kenyan Paraplegic Organisation) HQ
to have a look around and to see more of there hard work!
Unfortunately this wasn’t quite going to plan – simply because
there was no one there. After a few phone calls we were onto
plan B – off to catch up with Rocky one of KPO’s directors.
Rocky certainly came across as a very determined and
positive guy, despite also having a spinal injury. We met at
Rocky’s latest business venture which happened to be a BP
garage on the west of Nairobi (Rocky is also the proud owner
of the Rocky driving school – the biggest in the capital –
apparently there’s no stopping him). A quick chat about Col’s
adaptations, a few hotdogs and we were back on the Road
heading back to the world famous Hippo club (polo club where
we were staying) in Gil Gil.
Our plan was to get back
up to the Barlows to complete the final repairs to Col’s
wagon. Word on the street is that Flash knows someone there
who can help us machine down a torsion bar in the steering box
so that Col will be back in the saddle.
So the day
wasn’t quite what we expected however we were all pretty
chuffed to be back at the Barlow’s, chance to mellow some
more, fix the car and finish off any odd jobs.
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30 January 2006
12:00:00
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Gilgil
Back
‘home’! We had been upgraded from the hippo club to the guest
house which was great for accessibility to the house – we were
becoming family! After a great evening sat around the dinner
table, I was surprised how early we were all up (not actually
that early for us but under the circumstances, wasn’t that
bad.!)
Yet another day of catch-up of diary, taking
apart the steering box ready for tomorrow, fixing Colin’s new
off-road chair (just to suit him). We had to put some padding
on the back, change the position handlebars, adjusting the
seat position, changing the throttle so that it was on Colin’s
right-hand side and various other little tweeking. It’s great
for Col to have this off-road chair because one of the major
annoyances for Colin is the fact that getting around from A to
B in his wheelchair has usually needed someone to help him.
Wheelchair accessibility hasn’t really existed so far and the
terrain everywhere has been stones, sand or just plain rough
ground. It does take a while to set up the chair but I’m
imagining that when we are in a place for a while this will be
Colins’s main mode of transport. It’s great to see him have
the freedom in a place like this.
Ben has decided he
wants to know more about mechanics so gave Woody a helping
hand at taking apart the steering box. Yes, I think I was
supposed to be 2nd mechanic but when I asked Woody where the
chassis was in the Disco, I think he decided he didn’t need
me!! (For those of you who are like me and clueless on cars,
the Disco doesn’t have a chassis!)
Sunday evening was
another trip to some old friends who we had met several times
already – Ricky and Susie who lived down the road. Once again,
we were treated with some delicious food and great company.
Even though, apparently, we are all looking better than when
we arrived (well fed and watered) I think the past week of
late nights is beginning to take it’s toll and so a relatively
early night for all.
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