1st January. Ethiopia, Addis Zimmen: Happy New Year

Auithor: Ben Matthews
Location: Addis Zimmen 
GPS: N12 13.813' E037 46.419' 
Weather: Nippy!!! 

Ben: Mohammed, wake up. 
Mohammed: Zzzzz Zzzzz Zzzzz 
Ben: Mohammed, I think some crazy Baboon wants to share my bed!! 
Mohammed: Zzzzz Zzzzz, paaarrpppp, grunt, it must be your turn - you travellers get all the luck! 

Once we had all hugged and finished the last few bottles of local brew, it was about 01:30. The night air was pretty fresh and everyone seemed keen to get there heads down, there was a lot of trucking to be done come the morning. 

Everyone went off to there little boudoirs but not me. Being in such a beautiful spot and being the start of a new year, I thought that I would be a great idea to bivvi out under the stars. My plan was to help get Col into his pit and then I would set up my spot next to the fire. I grabbed my sleeping bag and wondered back but it looked like I was too slow. Mohammed our Scout (local armed guard - compulsory purchase whilst in the park, his mission: to protect us) had only gone and nicked the best spot in the house. He was flat on his back, playing sleeping Lions with himself right in front of the fire. No worries Mohammed, you have our beers, food, spare blanket and now my bed - at least we'll sleep better knowing that we'll be safe. 

So I wondered into the bush to become one with myself and it wasn't long before I was fast asleep. 03:30ish and my senses threw me awake - Kiko's curry was still taking effect and there were some alarming noises coming from the bush behind me. I tried to ignore it but about 20 minutes later I heard the same monkey noise. Not knowing what a Baboon is capable of or what he wanted with a skinny Brit, I quickly jumped out of my bed and scurried back to the safety of Mohammed - I don't think this made a difference! Mohammed has got some stamina I thought; there he was still playing sleeping Lions. So I moved a few rocks, laid out my bed and got back to sleep. 'At least if I did get attacked by a monkey then at least Mohammed might wake and help me!' 

I woke to a beautiful sunrise and a glass of Egyptian tea - this certainly was a great start to the New Year. Mohammed stood above me, riffle in hand, pink safari suit, Rasta hat and looking proud of himself that he had looked after us so well - this was a great photo opportunity. 

It's a shame that we couldn't have had longer in the Simien Mountains, these really are a must for anyone who visits Ethiopia. However Ethiopia is a big place, lots to see and we're still trying to catch up days!! So we got back in the trucked and headed back South to Gondar, only briefly stopping for a few supplies. It had taken us 4 hours to drive 110km and the original aim to pushing west from Gondar towards Lalibella was starting to look very unrealistic. 

By about 5pm we had managed to make it as far as Addis Zemen, only about 80km SW of Gondar. This seemed to be our best option for stopping and so that's what we did. Grab a local and get him to take you to the nearest campsite. I think that this will be a preferred method of finding camps whilst in Ethiopia, simply as wild camping just doesn't seem to be an option. It seems that there are people everywhere even when you believe you're in the middle of nowhere. 

The evening was spent, cooking, cleaning and unfortunately having a team meeting to decide what site/places we are now going to have to miss out on. Ethiopia has just got too much to offer!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 

02 January. Ethiopia

Author: Chrissy Prydun 
Location: Gohatsion 

Having spent the last three days clocking up hundreds of images of amazing ethiopian highlands from the passenger seat on Col's digital camera, I thought it was time to curb my photographic obsession. The only way I could think of to prevent my hands wandering for the camera (for another shot of a donkey causing a road block) or fridge (for another one of our dwindling supply of mandolin chocolate bars) would be to keep them busy i.e. to jump in the drivers seat of the defender keeping them firmly and permanantly attached to the chunky steering wheel. 

Who would have ever thought I would learn to drive manual in Africa? When I first applied for the position aboard the driving home team, I had to confess my manual driving experience was limited to driving the wrong way down one ways streets and causing traffic jams in non english speaking countries, but an experienced automatic driver, I was confident I could master the skills needed to truck accross Africa in time with a bit of practice. 

In Ghana at the time I was offered the position as Col's PA I thought what better place to learn how to change gears and drive on the other side of the road than to rent one of the busted up taxi's with matching taxi driver, to drive accross some and dirt tracks and through downtown Accra. Crazy as it was for the stressed out taxi driver, it was this in combination with Woody's Tripoli carpark driving lesson that gave me the confidence needed to jump on that booster cushion and have a go at some African trucking. 

I cannot quite describe the incredible feeling of driving through Africa. The scenery is always stunning and varied. Infact it even changes dramatically within an hourly stretch. Combine this with some great chat; music pumping from Chris' ipod (when Woody hasn't put on another Oasis mix) and the realisation that I am driving such a powerful machine accross Africa in the middle of knowhere makes me feel on top of the world. 

For my maiden driving home voyage I drove in Libya with Col's vehicle up ahead looking like a mirage the roads were so straight, and the desert so hot and flat. Despite my tricky 1st to 4th gear changes and uncool erect driving pose this day gave me practice in handling the car at high speeds and in windy conditions, especially when semi-trailers would fly by so closely in the opposite direction.

The second time I hopped in the drivers seat I was yet again sporting an uncool driving pose but felt way more tough and professional ploughing us through sa?d storms, dirt and gravel in order to get a taste of sudanese off road driving. I managed to get practice in gear changing and not tipping us over on the side! woohoo! Moreover I managed to get us there without destroying the last of our remaining christmas food kitty - half a dozen eggs. 

But today's drive was the best. With beautiful hilly scenery sprawling up ahead of us, fantastic company (the always entertaining Matthew's team onboard) and Kiko in charge of the music, it made for a spectacular day of trucking. Ok, so I am still a little partial to losing the location of the third gear from time to time, which means that whoever is passenger can't really sleep at their leisure. However, today I got practice with mountain driving, dropping gears into corners and speeding up out of corners and driving through crowded villages. Moreover I managed to do so without hitting any of the local wildlife, although a few times we did come close to feasting on thai green donkey curry. 

The afternoon was great. Kikes took over with driving so I could catch up on some diary entries and later the three of us got all deep, with the start of the new year, Ben's tarot card christmas present and philosophising about our new years resolutions prompting some emotional chit chat. As we all drove into and out of an amazing gorge (a 2 hour journey due to ultra dusty bumpy roads) we had the windows down and big grins on our faces. Ben who had hopped on the roof for the drive looked like he had been in a science explosion with his hair and face covered in dust. He took the official 'Stigger the dump' title off me for grubbiest face. The cars had found it all a bit rough though. Beryl had overheated and although we didn't know what the problem was at the time, Brenda's starter motor had blown. So we postponed our plans to make it to Addis Ababa in favour of setting up camp in the squashiest hotel carpark in a village Gohatsion. Here we would camp at for the night after the boys negotiated hotel prices while Kiks and I belted out lyrics to a Cat Stevens song in the idling car drawing a local audience in the process. We treated ourselves to a feast of beer, bread and goat/sheep (perhaps some other meat or part) at the local pub and Chris hit it off with the pub owners kids while we contemplated how the pub's macchiato coffees good taste so good? 



Original diary entry: 
Text and Voice mail messages from the team saying; 

'Happy New Year.' They spent New Years Eve on the top of the Simien mountains with amazing views, a large campfire and a few beers which they thought was perfect! I'm very jealous of them!! 

They have now headed back to Gonder and towards Addis Zemen and onto Lalibela. They hope to reach Addis Ababa on the 3rd or 4th Jan where we hope to get some emails and diary updates from them. There have been stunning views around Addis Zamen and Chrissy and Kiko have done all the driving of the Defender, all 440 miles in the last 2 days. The rest of the team are also very well. 

Vehicle? not quite so well after the corrugations of the Sudan roads. Woody has been working hard but they need the expertise of a mechanic and some spare parts which they will soon get in Addis. 

More updates in a couple of days. 

04 January. Ethiopia, Addis Ababa: driving to Addis

Author: Chris Parsons
Location: Addis Ababa, Taitu Hotel 
GPS: N12 36.468 E037 28.242
Total mileage 8365 km

Last night had provided me with a wonderful opportunity to interact with the locals over some especially prepared Njara. By the end of dinner I had mastered 1 to 10 in Amharic and could rattle of the names of most parts of the body and essential school equipment courtesy of the land lady's 5 (amyst) and 6(sedist) year old daughters. They, in return could pull every funny face I could muster and make a passable stab at 'Head, shoulders, knees and toes', in truth most of the bar could have the number of times I exposed them to it. 

I had thought my education complete for the day so having helped get Col settled in I retired to the bar for a final beer whilst bringing my own journal up to date. Word had obviously got around this one horse town of our arrival and a procession of steadily more inebriated locals traipsed in to sit and /or chat. My final host was by far and away the worst for the drink. After declaring his love for Osama Bin Laden, even producing a pin of his likeness, he inquired as to my religion. Only in Glasgow has this question produced quite such an acute fight or flight response. I remembered the St Christopher hanging obviously about my open neck and figured lying might only get me in even more trouble. My mumbled reply resulted in him throwing his arms around me and declaring his love for Christians too. My heart rate slowed and my palms dried rapidly. It wasn't until he'd forced 2 further beers in my direction and the rest of the bar emptied I realised there may have been some ulterior motive behind his generosity. Stumbling back from the toilet he swayed towards me and with 'a nod and a wink, say no more' frighteningly reminiscent of the Python boys proceeded to offer me the bar maid for the night. Happily I was still sufficiently sound of mind to beat a hasty retreat to the sanctity of the boy's tent to ponder the completion of my night's education. 

After all that excitement I was good for little more than occupying the back seat of the Disco for the most part of the morning. Despite the darkened windows it was still possible to make out horizon filling vistas of the most fertile green and gold slipping by. Once again we were privileged to have ring side seats for the attempted suicides of several beasts of burden and even a small child under the wheels of one vehicle or another, happily none where successful. These near misses only reinforced our conviction that Col's deteriorating brakes really did need attention before we pushed on. Brenda, as much out of spite as sympathy, had added a bust starter motor to our ever expanding list of technical problems. So it was with not inconsiderable relief we limped into the outskirts of Addis Ababa 'the new flower' and set about deciphering the assorted collection of half accurate maps into one intelligible one. 

For reasons best known to the Lord above I had been nominated navigator for the day and spent the last few hours blissfully ignoring this role owing to it being a totally straight road from last nights 'hotel' to the capital. Now, however, I was going to have to sing for my supper. My first flyby took us with in one street of our intended destination but we were not to discover this until some time later. By now we should really have learnt the ongoing issues many Africans seem to have with maps but we keep stopping, as one might on the continent, and producing maps for the locals to stab at with their fingers before descending into heated debate as to even our exact current location. Woody had disappeared, found an internet caf; and managed to locate the only Land Rover dealer in Ethiopia before I even had confirmation I was where I was. Despite these challenges I managed, 2nd time lucky, to take us directly to our desired location only to find it full! No mater, there were a veritable throng of 'Rasta's' to direct us to what was to become our home for the night, the oldest hotel in Ethiopia - the Taitu Hotel. After much discussion between the manager, ourselves and several newly, self appointed 'guides' we unloaded both Landies fully. Col was for his routine and the guys headed off to get the work weary wagons back on the road. So began our stay in our 5th African capital 

05 January. Ethiopia, Addis Ababa: Awaiting Car Servicing

Author: Chrissy Prydun 
Location: Addis Ababa, Taitu Hotel 
GPS: N12 36.468 E037 28.242
Total mileage 8365 km 

After our pizza and beer reunion with the south african boys Eckhart and George the night before, Kiko woke up to feel a little rough. It seems she had picked up some 24hour stomach bug and so had to rest in bed for most of the day with frequent trips to the bathroom. Ben and Woody took the defender to the Landrover dealer they had found to sort out the problems with the cars. Meanwhile the Doc, Col and I spent a morning attempting to catch up on driving home mail at the slow internet cafe, contemplating on plans post cape-town and entertaining the locals by helping Col to wash his hair in public: This involved the Doc tilting back Col's wheelchair to a low enough position for me to do the honours of pouring bucketloads of water on his head. As the doc worked up a sweat delicately holding the chair in place I treated a grinning Col to a therapeutic scalp massage. No wonder the boys complain that Col gets preferential treatment. 

In the afternoon Ben kindly went to sort out our Ethiopian visa extensions after we chickend out at the thought of forging our 3rd January expiry date to a potential 8th January. Kikes probably had her head in a bucket (although thankfully had regained enough appetite for a bowl of potato chips) and the rest of us feasted on a lunch of pasta, fish and chip butty sandwiches with chilli powder! Having missed out on a lot of sightseeing, Woody and I accompanied Col for an afternoon stroll while Chris went to negotiate with the local pharmacys in order to purchase extra dressings for Col's burns. A chance to get fit on the hilly stretches of road. It seems we had strolled into the glitzy end of Addis with the street lined with tacky jewellry shops. Luckily the cobbly shanty towns we later encountered, bright and colourful in the afternoon sunlight made for a nice change of scenery. Of course there was always enough time for a double dose of delicious macchiatos along the way. 

Ethiopia to me is a fascinating place. It is unlike any other African country I've been to before with it's own unique style. Besides being overwhelmed by mind blowing scenery, the people themselves are warm and more reserved than stereotyical Africans with beautiful features and original embroided clothing. At the same time I have never seen so many begging people in the streets and children chanting and demanding things like pens and plastic. It has made it a bit harder to turn a blind eye and reminds me why I so keenly hope to work in Africa in the future..

06 January:

New diary updates now arrived

Dear all, 

Sorry for the long delay in awaiting the teams diaries. They have now managed to send them via an internet cafe in Addis. Please save some time as they are worth the read. The date back to 19th December and the title says 'added on 6th Jan'. 

The team are still in Addis waiting for the vehicles to be fixed. The 110 starter motor is now working again although Colin's brake vacuum pump (that was already changed in Libya at a cost of £500) seems to be playing up again which is not good news and sounds to be another expensive experience. 

They all very well - Kiko is now feeling better - and they are all looking forwward to Southern Ethiopia and Kenya where they will be visiting their first project - the Kenyan Paraplegic Organisation. Due to the remote roads again we will not be able to get regular contact until Gilgil or Nairobi - scheduled for 20th January, but I will keep you all updated as best as I can, Thankyou.

07 January. Ethiopia: Leaving Addis

Author: Ben Matthews
Location: Lake Lagano, Ethiopia 
GPS: N07 35.769, E038 41.648,
Total mileage 9766km 


Up early - today we left Addis Ababa, think that we might have been there a day too long. 

So since our problems with the vehicles nailed our finances yesterday, our first stop was to the hole in the wall at the Sheraton. Being Ethiopian Christmas day we thought that they might present some treats on entry - no joy!!!! Plan B - we sent the girls off to the ATM and the boys hit the toilets. Half an hour later we were loaded with cash and back on the road heading south. 

Last night we had decided that a visit to the Bale Mountains was going to be very tight for time. So once more we had a quick rethink and decided on a more leisurely cruise to the Kenyan border, making time for a little Hippo wrestling at one or two of the Great Rift Valley Lakes. 

As planned it certainly was a relaxed day, we trucked only 200km on really good tar and were parked up by 13:30 - time to really appreciate our surroundings. Our camp was on the edge of Lake Lagano, a massive brown coloured lake that is supposedly the only lake in the area that is Bilharzia free and safe for swimming. If you're lucky you might even see the odd Hippo - we weren't, loads of bird life however!! 

We definitely need more days like this, quite often it seems that we go bonkers for a few weeks, something breaks or we have to sit for visa's and then its only at these times do we all find a little time for ourselves - time to wash clothes, have a shave, read a book!! So that's what we did; we sent Col into the toilet tent with a bottle of local brew (Ethiopian laxative) and the rest of us just caught up with what ever. 

We swam in the lake, ate a lot of food, sat by the fire and watched the sun go down. Not forgetting a little toast for my brothers 21st birthday - 'Happy Birthday', looking forwards to having a beer with you on my return!!! 

08 January: Ethiopia, Wondo Garnet: Bird Watching

Location - Wondo Garnet, Hot Springs, Ethiopia 
GPS N07 05.004 E038 38.245 Total mileage 9841km 
Author Kiko Matthews 

Since we were only driving a short distance to Wondo Garnet, we could have a lazy morning by the lake. After a bit of a dispute with the locals regarding fire wood and camp fees, we eventually set of the 50 odd kilometers to the hot springs. Once again, the scenery failed to disappoint us and we arrived for a late lunch at the Costa del Sol of Ethiopia! You would have thought that being in the middle of no where would mean that we would be in for a tranquil afternoon and evening by some hot pools - boy were we wrong!! Every man and his wife seemed o be here and apparently something to do with their Christmas (January 7th). The Ethipian calendar, and time, is totally different to the rest of the world. They are 6 hours behind us in a day and are in 1998 and about 6 days behind us as well - all very confusing! 

The hot springs were much appreciated by all since we've had little hot water cleaning for a while. 

On our way to the springs we passed a load of potato stalls on the side of the road, and quite amusingly, both vehicles ended up buying a sack so dinner for the next week is going to be ....potatoes!! Mash, chips, saute, bombay, pesto, in tomato sauce..you name it, we have so many there's no other choice! 

In the evening, (having eaten our potatoes) we met a really nice American couple. He was a professor of some physiology and was very knowledgable on the wildlife which was very useful. At these hot springs we were lucky enough to see Colombus monkeys as well as th common cheeky little ones who were feasting on the wild figs in the trees above us. The birds, including the White Hornbile, and the flowers, made for a great spot to relax and look at some of Ethiopia's wildlife up close. 

Not a hugely eventful day but good none the less. 
P.S Even the water in the toilets was hot! 

09 January. Ethiopia, Yabello: Heading for border number 6

Author: Kiko Matthews
Location - The Green Hotel, Yabello, Ethiopia 
GPS N04 53.827 E039 03.004 Total mileage 10000 km 

Sunrise with Colobus monkeys, amazing flowers, loads of birds and scenery was the perfect way to start an early morning. The scenery in Ethiopia is amazing - everyday is different. The landscape, plants and people change every step you take. Those big wide smiles and children shouting and waving is exhilerating (you have to block out and forget the begging money scamming!) 

Today, we drove through fir forests, scrub land, red soil, sand, tropical forest, had papaya, coffee, pineapples and potatoes for sale on the road side......every 50 km was different. 

I took the driving seat (am getting quite attached to the Defender!) and starting the morning off in a very good mood (something to do with the crazy dreams from the night before!!!). Music full blast from the iPod, booms around the vehicle while the occassional squeal from mine and Woody's lips, can be heard! I love it. Great mood, loud music, beautiful scenery and control of a 2 and a half tonne vehicle makes for an amazing day. 

Emotions on this trip are bizarre. Yesterday, for some reason, I was feeling a bit numb and grumpy, and then by the evening, I was fine. Then this morning, and all the time I was diving, I was just in one of the best moods ever - smiling for no particular reason at all. There seems to be little rhyme or reason behind peoples moods and you just have to learn to live with not only your own, but also, with everyone elses!! The highs and lows seem to be getting a bit more frequent but they don't last that long and the rest of the team always seems to notice and so play carefully - quite nice I suppose and one of the advantages of having a large group because your moods are diluted. 

We've been on the road for 2 months now and just over 3 to go. Sometimes I wish it was less and sometimes it seems great. Yes, this is the most amazing experience ever but for those of you who may think this is a holiday, I can assure you it is far from that. The lack of the simple little things you take for granted at home like showers, hot water, washing, cold drinking water, refridgeration, fresh veg and fruit(variable availability), supermarkets, cupboards for storage, having a bed you don't have to get out and put away every night, and clean hands all get too much sometimes. 6 of us have all we need to live off for 5 months, packed into 2 Land Rovers (including ourselves!) and the amount of times the sugar has spilt all in the back draw, is uncountable now! I think we are all doing really well. 

The expedition has so many elements to it, preparation, driving, saftey, our daily living, the change in culture, raising money and awareness, the challenge for Col, for ourselves, and for the team as a whole. Loads of the diary entries have been about what we do on a daily basis and what we see, but I think we are all a bit shy about writing our feelings and these go all over the place in this kind of environment. A bit like Big Brother but I'd imagine a lot harder and longer. 

Anyway, this is my last entry for Ethiopia because we will be at the border tomorrow but I must recommend it to everyone, overlander or holiday maker. There is so much to see and it's all so different. We have met people who are here for 1 month and they are having to cram things in so the longer you stay the better. 

10 January. Ethiopia/Kenya: Welcome Home

Author: Colin Javens
Location: Moyale KWS campsite, Kenya border 
GPS: N03 31.087 E039 03.004
Total mileage: 10214km

We left the Yabello Sanctuary and The Green Hotel by 8am heading for Kenya. We had 150 kilometres to do before we hit the Kenyan border. I had been feeling incredible excited over the last week at the thought of arriving in Kenya, but by now it was really beginning to boil up inside. We stopped 40 kilometres from the border to have lunch, swot up on the border crossing procedure and for Ben to erect the Kenyan flag onto Beryl (that was kindly donated by John Fone on the day of our departure). 

After years of planning and 65 days of being on the road we were flying down the road in two Land Rovers with me in control of the lead vehicle, proudly flying the Kenyan flag high in the sky. It felt absolutely fantastic! 

We reached Moyale (the border town) and drove down a road bustling with people, sheep and donkeys towards the custom/immigration departments. We were met by a young Ethiopian boy called Daniel who greeted us with 'Karibu' (welcome). It was hot! Our thermometer read 37 degrees. Again it was time for the guys to go through the rigmarole of going the border paperwork bean bag race. I stayed behind in Beryl and brushed up on my Swahili with Dan. It wasn't long before I was beginning to feel like I was cooking up and my long forgotten Swahili was about to run out. Luckily the guys arrived and we moved under a large acacia tree tucked away behind the custom building. Pleasantly the guys were through in a record breaking time of 1 hour. 

We drove under a string barrier and crossed 'no mans land' into Kenya. Much to the amusement of the Doc we where asked to take the Kenyan flag down because they thought I was a Kenyan MP. Again we were through in record breaking time and I yelled out, 'Don't worry, I know the way! Follow me!' Five minutes later we where lost and boy, I still haven't lived it down yet. Half an hour later we found our campsite and celebrated with a warm Tusker beer. That night was to be the first night in five years that I sat outside in a 'T-shirt' since my accident because it was so warm. Feeling good and after talking rubbish around the fire with Ben, Chrissy and the Doc I hit the sack. What a great day! 

11 January. Kenya, Marsabit: Jeyjey Club

Author: Chris Parsons
GPS: N02 19.958 E037 49.412
Total mileage: 10460 km

Despite a comparatively late night there was a palpable energy to the team this morning. I sensed an unuttered understanding between us. This was it-..Kenya. The Drive Home was completed in name if not yet in exact location and the evidence was not only stamped in our increasingly travel worn passports but also etched on the face of our expedition leader. For the first time in 6 years he was back and champing at the bit to get out there. 

Everything was packed away in record time and we found ourselves milling around on the outskirts of Moyale high with expectant enthusiasm, like school leavers anticipating the final ring of the bell. Our escorting flotilla of lorries - with accompanying armed guards - collected in our wake. In typical African style the allotted departure time came and went, along with a further 30 mins, before we were suddenly instructed to follow a solitary truck out into the dessert. This lone vessel overcrowded with livestock and people was the convoy. The decision had been taken not to go it alone in light of the very mixed reports we had been getting regarding the recent activity, or lack there off, from the Shifta - armed marauding rebels originally from Somalia. At the first checkpoint, however, the convoy was delayed and we were ushered on with the smiling guard's reassurances ringing in our ears. All was well in our isolated little world for about an hour, which was passed keenly spotting infrequent wild life, marvelling at yet more new awesome scenery and joyfully murdering all our favourites from Col's limited CD collection 

Quite suddenly, and for no discernable reason, Beryls steering started protesting. The look of dejected frustration on Woody's face said it all. Here we go again! There followed much manly chatting, with essential associated posturing and arm folding, about impressive sounding mechanical stuff; fervent fetching and carrying of tools; considerable loud banging / ratcheting / cursing; impressively agile diving under / into Beryl's engine hood and we were tentatively on our way again. Ten minutes later and the entire process was repeated as the previously dented steering dampener was reapplied. Woody had, yet again, patched her up but we were limited to what would, in different circumstance, have been an excruciating, tortoise like 30kph. Not today were we to have our glory mood snatched from us in such a manner. Our reduced rate of progress afforded us a better opportunity to fully appreciate the gloriously barren wilderness we passed through. Ben's intermittent Mr Motivator style cries over the CB, bizarrely, had the hoped for effect and our mood remained bouyant as our planned 5 hour cross-badlands dash stretched into a near 9 hour marathon. Just as the final embers of yet another glorious sunset died in the enormous sky and we began contemplating camping out for the night our destination, Masserbit, edged onto our horizon. 

Within a half hour we'd procured a secluded grassed camping ground, struck camp and were eagerly awaiting the arrival of, would you believe, chicken, chips and beer via our new found guide Mohammed, when fate had one last throw of his dice. Whilst nonchalenting dispatching the aforementioned chicken for our dinner, Mohammed had, equally nonchalantly, succeeded in nearly separating the end of his thumb from the rest of the digit. As my first helping of chips in months got cold and the much needed beer warm I did what doctors do to such injuries before myself turning, ravenously, to my starter and returning Mohammed's attention to the main course. Credit where it's due, despite his incapacitation, when supper finally arrived it was gooooood, though the exact whereabouts of my 200 Kenyan Shilling bottle deposit remained something of a mystery as we all collapsed very gratefully into bed. Even the fear of yet more forced changes to our plans couldn't keep me from near immediate sleep. 

12 January. Kenya, Chalbi Desert: Wild Camping

Author: Chris Parsons
GPS: N03 00.403 E037 26.069
Total mileage: 10584 km 

In light of the minor mechanical mishaps of yesterday all but Woody were afforded something of a lie in today. He, for his sins, was up, as usual, at 6 to commence the labourious, tedious and decidedly oily process of stripping the steering box before lugging it down the road to 'the Indian mechanic'. I passed a blissful half hour snuggled in my sleeping bag wondering at the abstract nature of the value folk place on things. Whilst patching his hand last night, Mohammed had given me something of an insight into Kenyan society where the cow is revered as THE symbol of wealth above all others. A typical dowry is a very handsome 10 cows. Given the ongoing 2 year drought currently decimating livestock here, sadly, many locals are finding their perceived wealth quite literally falling by the way side. I indulged myself contemplating if my value system was as equally fragile! 

Before totally losing myself in such mental meanderings my alarm jacked me back to reality and the morning ritual of dressings Col's burns for the day ahead. This done and Woody was already returned contented that we could continue as planned, much to our collective relief. We passed the rest of the morning acquiring money and provisions for the road ahead, ably assisted by our bandaged guide. It transpired he has been compiling a journal of stories of his experiences with tourists, which he hopes to publish, and requested for me to compile a medical report regarding last nights incident to be included. Naturally I happily complied but on handing him the finished article took the opportunity to inquire about my outstanding bottle deposit. With a tap of his breast pocket he assured me he had it. Now this is a trifling sum of money but I sensed the spectre of the permanent perseved gulf in wealth was about to rear it's ugly head once again. Sadly this most marked of cultural clashes is becoming something of an over powerful understudy to our otherwise faultless lead. Col remains the star attraction where ever we go but the charitable nature of our expedition is quickly, maybe even understandably forgotten when the money issue is closer to home. It seems nothing, even a helping hand, is for free here, a lesson I learnt during my time spent working in Zimbabwe but am finding shockingly difficult to swallow none the less. We had already agreed an appropriate tip for his ever attentive services, actually considerably more than he already held, yet he steadfastly refused to hand it over, even requesting more. My having saved him many times this amount on a hospital trip the evening before was totally lost on him. To his mind this was our fault because he was killing the chicken for our supper. I think we all parted company slightly disappointed which was a huge pity. We had all thought very highly of him but our differing value sets simply failed to reach a mutually satisfactory conclusion on this occasion, despite the best efforts of all concerned. 

My resultant melancholia was, however, soon lifted by yet another singularly spectacular day on the road. We traversed the Chabli dessert en route to Lake Tukana passing just one other vehicle all day. Once again I was dumbfounded by the vaste, harsh beauty of the landscape. The bleached coral like scrub littering the dessert floor over shadowed by the strikingly wide and flat topped trees, so reminiscent of a nonchalant waiter's wrist cocked back-the-way carrying an empty tray. The pepper corn black rocks smattered over the too dry desert floor as through sprinkled from above. The painter's palate of colours of something so basic as sand - yellow, red, orange, black, purple, white - was especially impressive. 

All too quickly we found ourselves witnessing yet another of Africa's all consuming sunsets and so turned right, drove some 10 yards off the track and stood back to survey our home for the night, a billiard table flat salt pan that stretched, featureless to every horizon. This almost incomprehensibly simple, stunningly expanse was being swept by an unfathomably warm wind so we opted to all sleep out under the stars around the fire. Despite being quite exhausted from days events my marvelling at the ever inspiring clear star packed African night sky tempted me stoke the fire and round off a truly tremendous day by pushing back the realms of sleep until dawn, however I was set on driving tomorrow so admitted defeat and drifted into sleep, yet again with the now near permanent grim stretched across my increasingly bearded face. 

13 January. Kenya, Lake Turkana: El Molo Camp

Author: Colin Javens
GPS: N02 45.599 E036 43.365
Total mileage: 10748 km 

I awoke this morning with the wind blowing small particles of dust all over me. As I looked around I could see the expedition team were beginning to stir from their nights sleep after camping on their mattresses under the night sky in the Chalbi desert. Like a scene from the Walton's the morning greetings began to be called out around the camp. As I continued to look around I was struck again by the magnitude of the desert; the immense size of the African sky and the contrast of colours between the golden sand and turquoise sky. In the short time that I was looking the wind had already strengthened, which made the job of dressing my burns for the Doc and Chrissy that much harder. 

With improvisation being key to the success of the expedition so far it was even more evident this morning. As I looked up and took one look at the Doc I couldn't help but laugh. He had his Kikoi rapped around his neck and his great big ginger beard was erupting over the top of the kikoi and above that he had his ski goggles on to keep the sand out of his eyes. Yet this wasn't enough. Both Chrissy and the Doc had to delve underneath the duvet, dressings in hand to try to prevent any sand getting on my burns. Travelling in these remote regions has really taught us how to adapt to difficult situations. 

With the team on a real high we set off again across the open desert that seemed to resemble an ancient lake bed. The fine soft sand that we where driving through seemed to be capped by a hard crusty layer. With Ben riding shotgun we both knew that navigation was going to be difficult today but I wasn't expecting it to be as challenging as it was. I must admit Ben's skills really came into there own today. The sand track that we followed seemed to fork and split at every unexpected turn, but at each occasion I had a confident instruction on the direction to go in. The driving was also really challenging but speaking for myself and going by Ben's enormous grin I can say that we all thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. 

As the day wore on the sandy desert changed into what looked like the rocky surface of Mars or more like the result of a volcanic eruption, which meant at times we had to drive over large boulders and as a result really slowed us down. As the hours ticked away the anticipation of arriving at Lake Turkana (the lake I had been to 10 years ago) began to build and build. At every crest of the hill we expected to see the 'Jade Sea', but on three occasions we were denied. It wasn't until after 6 hours of constant driving that we climbed the final escarpment and looked down on the lake. It had been a long challenging day but as Ben said 'We are incredibly lucky to be here' and I think I whole heartedly agree with him. We reached our destination at Loyengalani pretty tried and hot but the team still mustered the energy to have a sweep out of our two dusty Land Rovers. What a great day (again). 

14 January. Kenya, Lake Turkana: El Mao campsite

Author Kiko Matthews 

Lake Turkana is supposedly one of the hottest places in Kenya so the night had been spent outside of our tents again, Chrissy in the hammock, Col, Ben and Woody lying under the palm trees and Chris and me in the tents. 

Around 8am, our friend Angelo came to pick us up and take us for a days fishing and croc watching! A short drive over to the shore of the lake and then came for the mission of getting Col in to the boat. We parked up in the El Malo tribe village which consisted of mud huts and loads of children!!! Their dress is very colourful and the girls all wear these huge beaded necklaces and head dresses which look beautiful. Strangely, the beads are imported from India and then they make all the jewellery themselves. It's actually quite difficult to tell the difference between the young girls and boys because they all have short hair and the clothes are not really male or female. However, apparently the girls wear a single colourful necklace to distinguish themselves. 

Getting Col into the boat was ummm..interesting! We all had to gather round the boat, lift him up on to the front, get the wheelchair in, secure it and then transfer him back on to the chair. The locals, as per usual, were all fascinated and practically the whole village were down at the shore watching us. (Chris has got to the point where he asks for money from the locals to watch Col, if and when they are rude enough to ask for money from us!) 

Off on our little expedition, which turned out to be exactly that - little!! Angelo had told us a price for the fishing (which they did, and not us) and the croc watching for which he said we could go for as long as we wanted. As it turned out, we were gone for 1 ½ hours because there wasn't enough petrol in the tank! Typical. 

Angelo took us to see some medicinal hot springs one carbonated that helps with diarrhoea and the other that flushes you out (just sounds like all the other water that we come across!). Then for the catch! Angelo and his mate he has bought along aren't friends but guides and so wanted money for all this. Yes, we still haven't learnt! We got into a dispute about the whole thing because to be honest, the fishing trip and croc watching wasn't really what we were expecting plus he had never mentioned anything about wanting money to organise it for us. 

The afternoon was spent relaxing by the pool and around the camp ' a bit hot to really do much else. Col met a guy who 'gave' him a lovely wooden wee bowl (actually a fruit bowl) and then surprise surprise he wanted something in return! A lift to Maralal, for his mate the following day, and a Driving Home t-shirt! Nothing in this country (or any of the others for that matter) is for free and you just have to be so careful what you accept from people - we're learning though! 

The usual dinner scene around a fire munching on Chinese stir fry to make a change, accompanied by Col's new mate, who by now, was totally intoxicated! In the distance we could hear drums, music and shouting which apparently was a ritual circumcision of a young tribal boy. The male circumcision still regularly occurs but as for female circumcision, the woman now has the choice rather than like that for the boy. 

It was a slight shame about the payment dispute we had earlier with Angelo because it created a bit of an atmosphere around the camp with us and the locals but apart from that it was a good day. Our first sightings of the croc! 

15 January. Kenya, Maralal: Yare Camp

Author: Chrissy Prydun
GPS: N01 03.520 E036 42.673
Total mileage 10986 km 

At 6am my alarm yet again resonated, this time across Lake Turkana, and as usual I had to do the mad scramble to locate it. This time unbeknown to me it had fallen from my sleeping bag into grassy undergrowth during the night. Yep, most of us had opted to sleep out under the stars again. A warm and balmy night devoid of mosquitoes and with a light breeze had presented the perfect opportunity to do so and I got dibs on Col's hammock again. I love sleeping in it 

After downing warm leftover beers and stale peanut butter sandwiches for breakfast we all crammed into the cars. We had also offered to take one of the locals to a town along our drive so he sat on the roof. Luckily because he was transporting a bag full of potent fish! 

On today's hot drive via Baragoi the scenery changed dramatically every hour. Initially we drove on bumpy volcanic pebbles along the turquoise waters of Lake Turkana. From here we ascended into more mountainous scenery with jagged blue peaks in the distance whilst spotting the occasional ostrich. Here the creek beds were at an all time low due to the drought afflicting the area and the roads were at their roughest. Kiko who I was accompanying today handled the slippery sands and rocky drive particularly well, although in one heart racing incident the back right wheel lost it's track on a bump. Naturally Kiko reacted quickly but over-correcting with the steering wheel caused the back end to fishtail momentarily out of her control. Luckily she regained control of the car although our hearts continued to race for a few minutes later. It just goes to show how easy it is to roll the cars, particular the Defender due to it's higher centre of gravity. 

It reminds me of a story we heard recently. When we were in Wadi Halfa, the guy helped us sort our visas told us a story about a British woman and her sons who had purchased two Landrovers and had been concerned about them due to their lack of knowledge and experience with driving the cars. Unfortunately we heard in Marsabit from the locals that the woman had been killed in a car accident. It certainly sent shivers up our spine and reminded us how carefully we had to drive. 

Tonight we escaped the heat to set up camp in hill top Maralell after a particularly scenic stretch with dark dead tree silhouettes jutting into the afternoon sky, pine tree runs and open grassy yellow fields. Kiko, Chris and Woody head off to the camp site's restaurant to indulge in a chicken curry meal. Meanwhile Ben hangs around perfecting his guitar playing skills which Col and I listened to as we complete his routine. Ben then treats us to a delicious and simple tomato, tuna and chilli pasta which the three of us hungrily gobbled while chilling out in Col's side awning (i.e. mobile bathroom). With the exception of Chris, the boys sleep out again tonight, while this time I ditch the hammock and join Kiko in the tent for an overnight night session of overdue gossip and giggling. 

16 January. Kenya, Laikipia. Ol Malo Lodge

GPS N00 39.379 E036 52.430 Total mileage 11054 km 
Author: Chrissy Prydun 

Camplife at 6am: Ben is searching frantically for his flip flop believing it has been abducted by a baboon in the night. Col remains hidden from icy early morning dew underneath the warmth of his duvet having camped out for the night. Woody scrapes through his limited remainder of clean clothing kit for his wake up shower session. Kiko disassembles the awning and photographs birds in between multiple loo runs and I stick my head out of the tent in order to begin my early morning younger sister style taunting of the Doc who has groggily emerged from his tent with lighter and cigarette in hand for his early morning nicotine fix. 

This morning is great. We wake up early as usual but since we know we only have a short day of trucking ahead of us it gives us the perfect opportunity to sit down at the table like a family for a leisurely breakfast after our pack up. This makes a nice change from the usual breakfast on the go mad dash. 

I am back in the drivers seat and decide to take charge of the iPod on the short drive. Today Ben spots a suspect horse (on closer inspection his first Zebra) chasing an ostrich, in roadrunner style across the red and flat dusty landscape. 

Armed with a grid reference for the Frankhams (friends of Col's family) Ben chooses an off the beaten track style of navigation today (something I don't mind as the more bush bashing the more practice I get) but as per usual trustily navigates us to the Frankham ranch with near perfection. 

We are greeted by the warm and down to earth Frankham family: Colin, Rocky, Andrew and his girlfriend Chulu in their beautiful estate. They run a 5 star ranch with a series of bungalows sat atop the edge of a volcanic lava flow. The bungalows are something out of this world beautifully decorated with local handicrafts, natural fibres and woods and connected via a series of wooden pathways through tropical, cacti dotted gardens. With their cliftop positioning and extra large windows, they offer sweeping views of the valley below and we are all blown away, thrilled and privileged to be offered the $400 per night rooms to sleep in free of charge. There are also several outdoor and indoor entertaining areas as well as a clifftop pool from which you can browse at the animals below drinking from the nearby wateringhole. For some of us this is the first time we have stayed anywhere so extravagant and breathtaking and find it difficult to contain our excitement like little kids at Christmas. Kiko palpitates over the room she has scored for herself complete with jacuzzi and bed each big enough for three. The grim brothers are yet again roomies in an equally fitted penthouse style set-up and Ben, Col and I turn hyperactive at the sight of the honeymoon suite we will shack up in tonight! 

The rest of the day seems like a dream in which we are all abducted from the familiarity of our camping, roughing it, not showering world into an oasis of luxury! We spend the afternoon drinking beers and shand'�s and indulging on crusty bread with real butter and local honey. We are used to our accountant Kiko (Mummy Matthews) rationing our treats and are overwhelmed that we are able to help ourselves to multiple servings of chocolate and gingernut cookies. 

However, the real surprise of the afternoon is delivered in a light aircraft. Col's mum Val and partner John having arrived in Kenya the day before are flown by family friends the Barlow's (who we will meet in GilGil in a few days time) to the estate for an early surprise. From here on in Col wears his trademark grin for the entire day. The rest of the evening is spent catching up and reminiscing. Retelling numerous driving home anecdotes over a camp fire we realise just how enjoyable and fulfilling our trip has been to date. To top it off we are treated to a BBQ. I have to say I am not a big red meat eater, nor do I particularly crave it, but after all the vege curries and variations of tuna on pasta or potato dishes we have eaten, I am absolutely blown away by the tender pieces of marinated meat Andrew serves us. I have never tasted meat so succulent and we are all reduced to a bunch of grinning idiots with meat juice dribbling down our chins. That night having indulged in one two many beers I end up with extra responsibility. I act as personal assistant for both Col and Ben who I room with for the night during the bedding down routine! At least Ben tucks himself into bed. 

17 January. Kenya, Laikipia. Ol Malo Lodge

Author Kiko Matthews 

We are all awoken by the early morning sunshine streaming in our bedrooms through the huge bay windows � what an amazing way to start the morning. Its like being in heaven! What�s more, we are then treated to another feast - breakfast, consisting of bacon, sausage, egg, tomato, Weetabix, fresh fruit, toast and fruit juice!! Mmmmmmmmmm This is absolutely amazing. 

This was a day of relaxing, at last, which makes the most refreshing change from our life on the road where the only time we are free from work is as a passenger. Our time on the road and the experiences we have had, have been amazing but also very tiring. Morning starts at 6am, on the road by 8am with a cuppa, orange and few biscuits, a days trucking, when if we are lucky enough, we stop for a short lunch break. Having located a suitable camp spot around 6 we then all set about preparing the tents and our vehicles while two of us (not Chris or Col) start creating a feast fit for a king (a combination and variation on the theme of veg, chilli, tomato and tuna, with rice, potato or pasta!). After having eaten, it is washing and tidying up then bed, so this stay with the Frankham's is a much needed break and huge relief. 

Some of us relaxed by the pool while others check out their new house that they are in the process of building. Typical English tea at 5 and then the boys head for the hideout to do some animal spotting. Chrissy attends to Col's daily routine while I stay behind to help with any lifting that Chrissy needs help with. When the boys return, the three of us who remained up at the lodge are very jealous to find out that they have been lucky enough to spot a female leopard and her two cubs drinking from the watering hole. I'm sure that we get opportunities to see something like this again - well, we are in the wild animal capital of the world so I hope so! Chris managed to capture it on video so we did see what we are lucky enough to see what missed out on. Unfortunately, the elephants that often frequent the 5000 acre ranch decided not to make an appearance (I did hear them earlier in the morning though) but we did get to see warthogs, hyrats (friendly type fluffy African marmots) genet cats, impala, zebra and their pet, greater kudu. 

Chrissy and I decided that a fringe would suit me so while we were waiting for the boys to return, our great idea of giving me a fringe was put into practice. Yikes, I now look like a school girl from the 80's (thank god for sunglasses that can act as a hair band and the 3 months we have left before we reach civilisation!). I have to say that I wouldn't really recommend Chissy as a top stylist! Oh well, things could be worse! 

After dinner, I think our relaxing day had tired us all out, so early to bed in our 5 * accommodation. I could stay here for ever. We have been so lucky to stay here - it has been amazing. THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!! Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz. 

18 January. Kenya Lake Baringo: Roberts Camp

Author: Kiko Matthews
GPS: N00 36.732 E036 01.436 

Another amazing start to the morning but just a few hours earlier! A fond farewell to the Frankham family then off, back on the road for our short 150km drive east to Lake Baringo. 

The roads are continuously improving from the dusty, rubble, stoney tracks up north, to the now asphalt roads which even though still have pot holes in, they do enable us to drive a little faster and so cover more mileage. The Moyale to Marsabit road we drove along as we first hit Kenya, was dreadful and we were probably driving at about an average of 25-30km/hr where as on these type of roughish asphalt, we can do more like 70-80 km/hr. 

By 3pm we have arrived at our beautiful lakeside destination and we decide to not bother with setting up camp, but to go and spend some quality time together doing some team bonding. We head for The Thirst Goat bar/restaurant and get a round (or few) of Tusker beers in. Ben and Col invent a new intellectual drinking game which involved a Hoselock garden sprayer and water. Sitting in a circle, we took it in turns to ask the person to our left, a question on one of the countries we had been through, so starting with Jersey we worked our way through to Ethiopia. If you got the answer wrong, the questioner would spray you as much as they liked with water. A very refreshing game since the temperature must have been in the mid 30's. The drinking part came in because you had to drink while you thought of the answer. It was really nice to actually have this moment as a team to relax together without worrying about anything. You can tell that Col is home by the constant beaming smile across his face and I think we are all feeling some of his emotion as well. 

I turned in to bed, a bit earlier than the others, i was half way to the tent when one of the wardens told me to be careful because there were hippo's in the camp! When I asked him to show me, he was more than willing to take me off into the bushes to show me these humungous mammals. So I missed out on the leopards but did manage to see the hippo's (and I also got to see a croc 10meters from me, the following morning). 

By the time the others came to bed, I think, from the noise levels, that everyone was very happy and had had a good night! Tomorrow we were heading for the Barlow's, where Col would consider his most recent Kenyan home, where he had spent many summers working on a farm, prior to his accident. I imagine he must have been very excited ' he had almost 'Driven Home', our half way marker! 

19 January. Kenya, Gilgil: Barlow Residence - arriving home

Author: Colin Javens 

I awoke to the unmistakable sound of a fish eagle and the deep throated call of communicating African doves and to me that could only mean one thing. We where in the Rift Valley and not very far from Gilgil and the Barlows, the place where I had come to know as home since I left Kenya in 1986. 

We only had just over 100 kilometres to cover that day and the urge to get in Beryl and driving south was becoming unbearable. However the previous day's dusty drive meant that the team were as ever, diligently giving the vehicles a good clean out. Which meant that we didn't end up leaving until 9.30am that morning? I think the inane grin on my face gave away the fact that I was exited as I pushed the ignition button that spurred Beryl into life. That was it, we were off. 100 kilometres or 2 hours and I would be back in Gilgil. We turned onto the first tarmac road we had been on since Ethiopia and just as we did we received a text message asking us if we could delay our arrival until 4pm that afternoon. Boy! Did that make me feel like a little kid who was denied the opportunity to open his Christmas presents until the afternoon. 

Not to worry. Everybody seemed hungry so it gave us the opportunity for us to stop off and chow down on some meat somosa's in a truck stop called Safari Bite on the way out of Nakuru. 10 somosa's later (each for the boys) and we hit the road again. With all the tarmac roads we travelled on the one from Nakuru to Gilgil has to be the worst. Not only do you have to dodge the crater-like potholes but you almost have to veer off the road to get out of the way of oncoming, snaking buses laden with passengers or overloaded Scania lorries almost careering out control towards you. With the last kilometres to go the very familiar sight of Lake Elementita with a pink dusting of Flamingo's and Lord D's nose in the distance appeared of the crest of a hill- a sight that I have longed to see for a very long time. 

One week before Valerina Javens had flown out to Kenya to meet us on our arrival and knowing that she would be there just added to the excitement. Navigating on known roads I drove through Gilgil heading for the Barlows. Ben next to me was going nuts with excitement. I don't think his bum touched the seat all the way there. As we turned onto the Barlows drive I could see three very familiar figures waving frantically in the distance. As we got nearer I could see that it was Mum, Sarelle and John and as I came to a halt my door opened and there was mum in tears. For some strange reason (maybe it was the build up or Ben's frantic excitement) I burst into a fit of giggles. Minutes later Flash and Nikki Barlow arrived and it felt like we had made it. We then had to carry out the old tradition of sinking a few Tuskers. Happy Days! 

20 January. Kenya, Gilgil. Barlows

Author Kiko Matthews 

After a rather big night to celebrate our arrival, we all awoke mid-morning a bit bleary eyed! We had kindly been allowed to sleep down in the Polo club so it was a bit like being in a dormitory all together-very cosy! 

Not much happened today because we took it as an excuse to relax and make the most of the Barlows kind hospitality. I tried to get this diary off for everyone, but with only 1 internet connection in the town, that you couldn't connect a USB cable to, it meant no luck unfortunately. In the evening though, it was a trip to the infamous Gilgil Club we had heard so much about. We all rocked up at about 8 o'clock to this white-Kenyan run sports/social club only to be welcomed with open arms, smiles and bombarded with questions! I think they had been expecting us!! 

By about 5am it was time to go home!! I think we all deserved this since we have worked really hard and everyone needs some fun once in a while! A few too many Tuskers perhaps but Col was very happy for sure. Some fond memories back at this place gave him reason to be, I guess. 

21 January 2006 12:00:00

At the Barlows

I'm afraid to say it was another late morning which is hardly surprising since Chrissy and Col didn't get to bed until just before 6am!! Brunch at around 12.30 and then the boys (excluding Chris) went off to see around Flash's farm near Naivasha. This was particularly interesting for Col and Woody who had both been to Harper Adams Agricultural College and love anything to do with farming and machinery!!

22 January. Kenya, Gilgil

Settling in at the polo club

After our series of inebriated sleep-in's we decided to get back into the swing of things and set the alarm for 8.00 but when I awoke to the sound of the usual snoring and trumpeting emanating from the depths of the boys sleeping bags I noticed that Kiko was missing in action. It seems the poor thing had managed to pick up another 24hour stomach bug and had spent the wee hours camped out near the toilet. As such she opted to spend the day in bed. After our usual Barlow Buffet Breakfast Feast (how will we ever return to subsisting on stale peanut butter sandwiches after our time in Kenya?) Chris continued backing-up film footage while Ben and I headed into town for a refill i.e. to pick up another 3 crates of beer and two bottles of wine. The Barlows, Val and John headed to a christening that morning and upon returning the rest of us jumped in the cars and headed to family friend's of Col's for another afternoon of indulgence. Frank, Lyn and their daughter Tash were the hosts and we were spoilt with another assortment of barbequed meats, Mediterranean salads and bottomless glasses of pimms with lemonade. Nikki and I had to lie down from overeating, a feeling I haven't experienced for a long time. Kenya feels like the refuel point of the trip. Not only have our cars been serviced and cleaned ready for part two of our adventure, but it seems that another mission of all our hosts has been to intentionally or not plump us all back to our regular weights, having arrived in Kenya looking gaunt and withered (or so we have been told). It will be difficult to return to our usual meal plans after feasting like Kings. To top off an entertaining afternoon we headed down to Lake Elementita (or Lake Elephentitis as Woody would refer to it) for sundowners: a Kenyan tradition, quite literally having drinks in a scenic spot while watching the sun setting and it's some performance. Kenya has sunsets to rival those I've seen in the greek islands: spectacular! Before we set up next to the lake with our beers and wines we drive around the lake to spot some of the local game: warthog's, waterbucks, buffalo, eland, and gazelles to name a few. The drawcard of Lake Elementita: the flamingos. Apparently the turnout was quite disappointing, nonetheless the flamingos that had landed on the lake formed an amazing pink layer on top of the glasslike water which formed a vivid contrast on the horizon. A couple of hours of chit chat and drinks later and we headed home via somewhat of a longcut or scenic route i.e. we got a bit lost. Yet again we took advantage of the detour, in Ben's case he jumped out of the car to chase some jack rabbits and when we returned to the Barlow's we thought we'd do a few laps of the polo pitch and try our luck to see if we could spot some hippo. Sure enough we were all dumbfounded when we caught one staring at us under illuminated high-beams, immediately after veering onto the pitch. This was followed by all the aptly suited expressions of exclamation to illustrate our surprise. From here on in we began to refer to the polo pitch and club as the hippo pitch and club respectively. Nikki assures us that by the next time we return to Gil Gil they would have kickstarted a new sport: hippo polo!

23 January. Kenya Naivasha

Today, it was off to yet another of the Javens's family friends, Debbie and Mike Ghaui who lived up a very bad dirt track, close to Lake Naivasha. Mike is one of Africa's top artists and animal sculpters and we could see why.(www.mag-wildlife-art.com then contact mag.art@africanonline.co.ke for Password and user ID) 

We had a very relaxed lunch with yet another delightful family in a beautiful setting. Thank you!!! Delicious! 

After lunch, we went for a tour of the studio when we had a slight accident/excitement!! We were all stood outside the studio looking at some skulls and skeletons, when Col decided to move his chair around but unfortunately actually managed to tip it over!! So there we all were chatting away and the next thing we see is Col slowly tipping backwards. Ben shouts out 'don't move mate!' to which Col replies, 'it's ok, I'm not going anywhere!' The jokes that Col has to put up with are endless but it's very refreshing to hear and see him joking about his disability. There are a few people who could learn from him - if you laugh about your misfortunes it makes life so much easier for you and those around you. 

Another large, tasty meal and Tuskers in the evening, a call from the Project Managers to discuss all these communication issues we're having with the computer and then bedtime. 

24 January. Kenya, School Visits

After our few days of well earned and much needed R&R it was back to work, of sorts, today. Fuelled by yet another phenomenal 3 course breakfast the team divided and headed our separate ways. Kiko and Woody where dispatched with a list of errands ranging from acquiring yet another replacement gas cylinder to picking up food and funds for the forthcoming run into Nairobi. In the meantime the remainder of the team made for a secondary school, Greensteds, in nearby Nakuru to continue driving home the message that there is life after spinal injury. 

We were met at the gates by another old Javens' family friend, Dudu, one of the teachers at Greensteds who directed us to our pitch for the next few hours. Col was soon out of the Disco and the roof tent erected as the first of three audiences started filing past into the relaxed environment of the common room where Col was to be speaking. In keeping with our previous experience of such occasions the children were attentive, amazed and asked some very sensible and searching questions - Col's still pondering his definition of courage. The less formal surroundings worked well with our increasingly interactive presentation. As ever, the demonstration of the hoist and hand controls in the vehicle had them enthralled. On each of the three occasions we ran through the by now well oiled routine, they had to be ushered reluctantly back to class. Several wandered back during their lunch break for a second look and to chat further with Col. One young man even asked to write about Col in one of the national newspapers, his father being the editor!! Some three hours after our arrival we packed away our kit and headed expectantly back to Gilgil for lunch. The whole affair nearly went without a hitch but out of sympathy for Col's wee tumble yesterday I obliged a small residual crowd with my own roll in the dirt. As I went to jump from the roof I caught my trailing foot in the roof rack throwing me badly of balance. My landing was less than graceful and scared the living daylights out of Ben who's feet my sack of potatoes impression ended besides. Luckily I suffered no more than a scratched left elbow and badly dented pride. 

Our plan for the day had included a trip to Lake Nakuru National park where we hoped to see, amongst other things, some rhino, Val and John had counted 16 on a trip there last week. However, as has been all to often the case, on our being reunited with the rest of the team it was decided there was too much work to be done in preparation for Nairobi. We passed the rest of the day packing and cleaning the vehicles. The finishing touches were also put to a wooden box to be bolted to the roof of Beryl to house Col's tent, bed and awning. Our website address was painted on the front with two decidedly manly warthog beneath. Although it didn't quite compensate fully for missing out on the National park it was great to see Col with a paint brush in his hand again. 

26 January. Kenya, Nairobi: Susie Allens

At Susie Allen's

Early morning pack away as we prepared for our next leg � Nairobi. We are returning to Gilgil on Saturday but firstly we must go to Nairobi in order to get our vehicles serviced. 

First stop though is a trip to one of the local prep schools, Pembroke, in Gilgil where Nikki Barlow and Colin's brother went years ago. We arrived at 11 to see all the children (7-13year olds) piling into the chapel to await our arrival. Apparently the whole school day had been changed to fit in with our visit so we felt very privileged. 

The kids had a look around the vehicles and then it was back into the chapel where Col and the rest of us had to sit up at the front and address the school. Colin seems to becoming more and more relaxed with his public speaking which is good because I'm assuming there's a lot more of it to come especially after the trip. Question time as always produced some very honest questions and one quite funny one 

"Why do you have a wonky eye?" 

It turns out that Ben had actually found a kid and asked him to ask Colin this! When we were in Jersey, one of the young boys had asked Colin why he had a bump on his head (which he doesn't!) and it has been a bit of a joke ever since! 

When it came to saying goodbye, we were loading up Col into the Disco and because it wasn't quite on the flat, moving the hoist inwards to get Col into the vehicle, was difficult. I went to push the jack up a bit, slipped and released the catch which normally lowers Col into his seat. As this was unexpected and the wrong time, Col went crashing towards the concrete floor!! Fortunately for me, Chrissy was holding his legs so no harm was done but it just goes to show how easy things can go wrong even when it's something that we do at least twice a day. I felt quite bad but mistakes happen and we just lean that we always have to be careful even if we are 'professionals' by now! 

After, our very successful morning at the school, it was back to the Barlow's for lunch then at around 3 we set off Nairobi (Nairobbery!). 

From now on, we are told the roads are tarmac all the way (if we want!) and you can actually get to Cape Town in about a week. So, our 100km (approx) shouldn't take us more than a couple of hours once we have found our destination. We arrive just in time for a cup of tea and fresh ginger shortbreads made by Ebi, Susie's cook. If you can afford it, then it seems to be that you have cooks, guards, cleaners, etc which is great because it helps with employment of the locals. 

Susie's son Jan, and daughter-in-law Erin, join us for supper and we yet again share the stories we have experienced so far. When you stop and talk to people about what we've done and where we've been, it makes you realise just how much we have actually achieved in the past 12 weeks and I think we deserve this half way rest (even now though, there's still always things to be done so not really a rest from everything, just camping, cooking and cold showers!) 10pm bed (early night at last!). 

27 January. Kenya, Nairobi.

The first day in Nairobi (suburbs) was spent doing catch-up diary, computer issue solving, vehicle repairs down at CMC and for Col, meeting a local 22 year old tetraplegic. 

Unfortunately our computer and it's supposed fancy mobile internet connection hasn't been working for a long time - since Egypt actually - and we haven't been able to work out why. This has meant a lot off extra work for everyone especially me, as communications lady. All our diary entries were supposed to be sent daily via the internet connection and also, our e-mail with messages, plans etc was also supposed to be able to be retrieved when ever there was a mobile signal. Due to the fact that the mobile connection wasn't working, it has meant that we have had to use internet cafes which are few and far between and we never seem to have time when we're on the road, to be stopping to do such things. As a result we have got very behind on entries and it has been quite stressful but sorry for that. Anyway, Jan introduced us to a young guy today who managed to solve the reason why - our dial out number is a 0800 number which is only useful in the UK- no one knows how it has worked at all so far but at least we now know. Hopefully we are going to get a new number which can be used from other countries - crazy but true! 

Vehicle repairs on the defender all went to plan - a simple service and hand brake cable but for the Disco it was a little more complicated. Colin had managed to snap the torsion bar in his adapted steering box and the guys at CMC were having problems fixing it. This would mean returning tomorrow to check it over some more. 

Ben was also at the garage sorting out the off-road wheelchair that has been made especially for this expedition by Molten Rock. Hellen, the Logistics lady at CMC Land Rover had very kindly been sorting out the customs and paperwork required for this to enter Kenya and this is who Ben was liaising with. She was extremely helpful in sorting out payments etc, and when I met her (actually tomorrow, Friday) she put me in a really good mood. A really genuine, helpful, friendly lady who, as a way of thanks, we gave a Driving Home T-shirt to. Thank you so much for all your help. 

Chrissy and myself were went off to stock up on food and other necessaries for when we hit the road again, while Chris and Col met Casey, the Kenyan who had had a driving accident and was now tetraplegic and had less movement than Col. Col really enjoyed meeting her and he said later on, to me, how lucky he felt to have had his injury as a UK citizen. The care and everything else that comes with his disability, is so much better in the UK than in Kenya, where there is little recognition of spinal injuries, available care and resources. 

In the afternoon, Chris and I attempted e-mailing the diaries from an internet cafe; but unfortunately I failed because my camera ran out of batteries before the relevant files were attached (we save the documents on a camera via its memory card then take it to a)! I felt like crying!!! 

Delicious, relaxed meal in the evening with everyone, exchangig stories and solving mind games. Nice early night for everyone because me, Ben and Woody had to be down at CMC for 8am (rush hour traffic in Nairobi to get through!) and Col, Chris and Chrissy had to be at KPO (Kenyan Paraplegic Organisation) for 9am. 

28 January. Kenya, Nairobi: Kenyan Paraplegic Association

Another early morning start to prepare for our visit to KPO in Nairobi. Seven months previously the expedition team had organised a dinner and dance in Hereford specifically for our 'African Beneficiaries' and along with some money raised during a sports day in Gilgil we were able to make our first donation to KPO prior to our arrival in Nairobi. 

We where staying in Langata at Susie Allen's house. Unfortunately our vehicles still weren't ready which meant Yan Allen kindly drove the Doc, Chrissy and I to the KPO office. We arrived at 9am to meet the directors of KPO, incidentally the majority of which were spinally injured. After a formal introduction we were able to see where our money was spent. Apart from the wheelchairs and urinary equipment I was able to meet 1 of the KPO staff who visited the KASI project in Moshi. 

I was very impressed by the organisation. Although it was still relatively young I could tell that the members were very motivated and keen to make a difference. Originally KPO was set up purely to provide wheelchairs for people who had suffered from a SCI in Kenya. This is important because the average person only receives an average of $1/day and with wheelchairs costing $200 it is virtually impossible for an individual to buy one. However they quickly realised that KPO had the potential to support their members in other ways. With that in mind we left for to visit The National Spinal Injury Centre of Kenya to see how KPO was supporting them. 

The National Spinal Injury Centre is based 300 yards away from the KPO office which meant we could all depart on foot like a herd of migrating wheelchair users down the road. As we arrived I looked down the drive and was met by the sight of a large marquee, filled with guests in front of the hospital with a large loudspeaker unit that looked like it was prepared for some awaiting speeches. Instantly I felt overwhelmed. I knew they were preparing a welcome for us but I didn't realise it was to that extent. However, before any of the formality took place I was invited to have a look around the hospital. Lead by the chief doctor and followed by a group of guest we looked around the unit to learn how they operate. 

The hospital is set up to capacitate 40 patients, but at any one time there is a waiting list of over 100 people. While they are waiting they develop serious problems like pressure sores and urinary infections. Those who have money fly to South Africa, Belgium or the U.K for hospital care and treatment. I was really impressed by the hospital. Considering they get very little support from the government for everything like the general upkeep of buildings to basic medicines and equipment (like hoists, adjustable height beds, urinary equipment etc, etc) it was still in very good condition. A patient generally stays there for 6 to 8 months and after they leave they get no other support medically or financially and they have to rely on their families to look after them. The positive thing was that although there is limited financial support there are good techniques in place. Using ward rounds patients aren't allowed to leave until the doctor, physio, OT and nursing staff think that they are medically healthy and have learnt enough. 

This is where KPO's work has already benefited the hospital. They have set up a counselling unit and trained 2 spinally injured people to run it. They are also adding to their membership to try to (as I understood it) to provide a support network which works in an equivalent way to SIA in the UK. Although I was impressed, the visit due to the lack of support, made me feel very lucky to have all my hospital care and rehabilitation in the U.K. I think that if I had my spinal injury in Kenya I may not be alive today and this is why I feel so lucky. 

After our visit we congregated in the front of the hospital and made our speeches in front of the National Media (including TV. Days later we were recognised by some staff in a petrol station.). It felt good to have helped KPO with equipment and to help raise their profile and I hope they continue to grow and to help more Kenyan's with a SCI. I just hope we will be able to help them in the future. 

Other facts that I learnt: 
We were unable to get an estimate of the total number of people with an SCI in Kenya, however we did learn that the majority of patients are male. 60% of those are a result of RTA's and a staggering 20% are from violence/shootings. 

It takes a staggering 6 months for a wheelchair to be delivered from the time of ordering to the arrival date. 

29 January. Kenya: Back to Gilgil

Today was the end of our short but enjoyable visit to Nairobi. I would like to say a big thank you to our hosts: Sue, Jan and Erin - you guys certainly made us feel very welcome. 

Up and out the door fairly early, where we all went back down to CMC Motors to pay our bill for the additional spares that we needed and also to pay labour costs for the guys who helped strip down the steering box in Col's Disco. From here the group separated, a couple of the guys went shopping (the Doc is in touch with his feminine side) and hopefully emailing back home a few more diary entries. While Col, Woody, Chrissy and myself were off to KPO (Kenyan Paraplegic Organisation) HQ to have a look around and to see more of there hard work! Unfortunately this wasn't quite going to plan ' simply because there was no one there. After a few phone calls we were onto plan B - off to catch up with Rocky one of KPO's directors. 

Rocky certainly came across as a very determined and positive guy, despite also having a spinal injury. We met at Rocky's latest business venture which happened to be a BP garage on the west of Nairobi (Rocky is also the proud owner of the Rocky driving school - the biggest in the capital - apparently there's no stopping him). A quick chat about Col's adaptations, a few hotdogs and we were back on the Road heading back to the world famous Hippo club (polo club where we were staying) in Gil Gil. 

Our plan was to get back up to the Barlows to complete the final repairs to Col's wagon. Word on the street is that Flash knows someone there who can help us machine down a torsion bar in the steering box so that Col will be back in the saddle. 

So the day wasnt quite what we expected however we were all pretty chuffed to be back at the Barlows, chance to mellow some more, fix the car and finish off any odd jobs. 

30 January. Kenya, Gilgil.

Back 'home'! We had been upgraded from the hippo club to the guest house which was great for accessibility to the house - we were becoming family! After a great evening sat around the dinner table, I was surprised how early we were all up (not actually that early for us but under the circumstances, wasn't that bad.!) 

Yet another day of catch-up of diary, taking apart the steering box ready for tomorrow, fixing Colin's new off-road chair (just to suit him). We had to put some padding on the back, change the position handlebars, adjusting the seat position, changing the throttle so that it was on Colin's right-hand side and various other little tweeking. It's great for Col to have this off-road chair because one of the major annoyances for Colin is the fact that getting around from A to B in his wheelchair has usually needed someone to help him. Wheelchair accessibility hasn't really existed so far and the terrain everywhere has been stones, sand or just plain rough ground. It does take a while to set up the chair but I'm imagining that when we are in a place for a while this will be Colins's main mode of transport. Its great to see him have the freedom in a place like this. 

Ben has decided he wants to know more about mechanics so gave Woody a helping hand at taking apart the steering box. Yes, I think I was supposed to be 2nd mechanic but when I asked Woody where the chassis was in the Disco, I think he decided he didn't need me!! (For those of you who are like me and clueless on cars, the Disco doesn't have a chassis!) 

Sunday evening was another trip to some old friends who we had met several times already - Ricky and Susie who lived down the road. Once again, we were treated with some delicious food and great company. Even though, apparently, we are all looking better than when we arrived (well fed and watered) I think the past week of late nights is beginning to take it's toll and so a relatively early night for all.